Saturday, April 29, 2023

Cissy's Double Happiness

April is coming to its close and it occurred to me that I have only shared, in this journaling, one creation this month.  Its not for lack of having made things, but some were not wholly worthy of sharing until a later time.  I've been working on parasols.  And I have been for a couple of months now in order to create one of superb fantasy for a project long overdue.  It will come.  I just keep getting sidetracked for projects that call to me.  

Currently I'm exploring a long-held desire to read the tales of the Arabian Nights, and seeking out the most beautiful imagery, illustrations ever created for these stories.  When spring comes, fantasy and the exotic take hold of me, and I couldn't be in a better place, or frame of mind, to do this now.  Yet my love of traditional Chinese styling of attire has kept me leapfrogging from one thing to the next.

When I was collecting an array of gorgeous fabrics for this kind of costuming, I came upon this adorable print of happy Chinese characters by Robert Kaufmann.  I knew instantly that my very next costume for Cissy would be out of this print.  It would be a skirt.  One like my mother wore that simply enchanted me.  These full skirts often had border prints, some in tropical island themes, and the ones I loved best had large prints that told a story.  To me they told a story.  

I assume people thought me a strange child because I stared at people a lot and didn't say much.  What was going on in my mind was not a criticism, but a deep and intense observation of what attracted me.  And a swirling skirt of beautiful prints and colors would capture my imagination entirely.  Nothing has changed.  I'm still the same way, only now I'm a bit more discreet!

I also knew that this colorful and whimsical skirt would need a

black silk, Mandarin style top to go with it.  So, I set out once again to make a new pattern.  This style was not my first choice, but it was one that worked and that I could achieve.  Later I would be studying a Chinese dress made by American Girl and discovered just how to achieve the look I was after.  That will be for another day, another outfit.  And definitely a blouse.  And possibly a dress.  A lot of what I do, I've learned from studying the construction of other designers' work, just as they have done.  Nothing is new. 

Black is one of the most difficult colors of fabric I've ever worked with.  You cannot see the black thread on the black fabric and only intense light upon the piece allows you to see what you're doing.  So in this photo on the left, I took a bright light image to share with you the frog closures I made for it.  As you'll observe, they disappear in the other photos.

This little top is perfect for the warmer temperatures of spring 


and summer and is fully lined like all my doll clothing.  It boasts the Mandarin collar and five sets of mini black grosgrain ribbon frogs.  A simple knot with its tails creating the end pieces is the closure.  I studied the work Ruby Red Galleria does for its frog closures for this effect.  
I call this outfit Cissy's Double Happiness only because the characters in the skirt's print look happy and smiling and full of fun and mischief.  The Double Happiness symbol in Chinese is comprised of two copies of the Chinse character, which means joy and happiness.  It is commonly used as a Chinese wedding symbol to represent double joy and happiness for the newlyweds as they begin their married life together.  In more recent years, it has also come to symbolized Good Luck.  

For this purpose, I choose Good Luck.

Back view of Cissy's sleeveless blouse, which has a solid back, the top opening in front, then closing with the frogs.

I recently acquired a full half slip for her to help her skirts and dresses stand out a bit more.  

The width of this skirt is 42", the rest of the standard 44" of fabric is in the back seam.  It is also fully lined with a delicate batiste.  The reason I got all that fabric into the waistband is that the fabric itself is a delicate lawn.  I LOVE this fabric.  So much so, that I purchased it a second time, the last yard the seller had.

As I was making this costume, it came to me that a black Chinese, straw cone hat would look cute with it.  I was in luck that I just happened to have 20 yards of hat straw and a bit more on hand.  

Even though many of us think of these as Chinese in nature, they are worn throughout Asia, primarily as a form of protection against sun and rain.  When made of straw or other woven materials, they can be dipped in water and worn as an impromptu evaporative cooling device.

In China, the hat was typically associated with farmers and fishermen.  There are varying styles throughout Asia and throughout time, and even conical hats woven for the winter climates. For Cissy, it's just plain fashionable and kitschy.


I also included a black market bag of the same straw. I thought I knew what I was doing in making a "taco" purse, but it wasn't as I expected, so I tucked in the sides to make "expansion" gussets and closed it with a same straw loop and knot.  Two handles are attached for Cissy to carry it.  I love making accessories and often it is all a learning experience I can use in the next attempt.

I collected Chinese themed beads as well.  I have a very heavy bag of them to sort through each time I make jewelry for these costumes now.  For Cissy's Double Happiness, I chose the green enameled beads with the Good Luck symbol on them.  She also has a stretchy bracelet with the beads and one of black crystals.  Not too much.  Just enough jewelry to give the outfit a fun and feminine appeal.

I have to tell you that I recently acquired a mint condition original Pleasant Company Girl of Today.  The JLY4 Asian doll.  I'd been collecting all the Chinese costumes both Pleasant Company and American Girl had made over the years, and all I needed was the perfect doll.  I found her.  Finally!  I bathed her limbs and face and washed her hair and she's gorgeous once again.  A doll that age will get a little sticky and no matter how she was preserved and cared for, old doll hair does get dirty.  As I've never sewn for American Girl before, I purchased a Chinese outfit pattern, a basic one, to use to sew something for her.  With all the fabric I have, this should be a fun, and of course, new experience.

It is my goal each morning to live each day to its fullest and fill it with as much pleasure as possible.  I want no regrets in my last moments on earth.  Whether its concocting beautiful costuming for dolls, making a special doll from another one, reading the stories of The Arabian Nights, or greedily enjoying the television series Longmire (love it!!!), the day must end with gratitude in that I've experienced something wonderful not to be missed.

爱 Melissa


The Print

Double Happiness in a Lantern


Extraordinary Cone Hats!!!  Must try making one.



 

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