Wednesday, March 20, 2019

Lady Greensleeves

"Alas my love you do me wrong, to cast me off so discourteously!"  It was not until I was putting the finishing touches on this doll's medieval costuming that I began considering who she was.  So very unlike me, but then the lovely ballad Greensleeves came to mind, and I could not get the tune out of my head.  And so is born, my version of Lady Greensleeves.


If anyone has looked up the lyrics on an engine search, or speculated about the myth that Henry VIII wrote it for Ann Boleyn, you well know  this is only a myth.  The lyrics to this ballad were penned long before the tune was written in 1580.  The melody, written for the lute, and has become a well recorded song by many artists over the years, and has also been sung to other poems throughout the centuries.  What is lasting, is a tale of unrequited love for a beautiful woman who could not love a man who gave her the moon and stars.  Lady Greensleeves.

Several artists throughout time have been haunted by this melody inspiring them to paint the likes of Lady Greensleeves.  One among them, Dante Gabriel Rossetti (see below).  Enchanting women, all, and each mesmerizes the viewer and seems to tell a story of quiet longing and promised passion. 

Lady Greensleeves is quite a departure from my normal costuming, but I was inspired enough to give dressing Tonner fashion dolls a try after purchasing, at great cost, several historical costumes from a Russian artist.  Unfamiliar with creating patterns for this body type, I decided to "cheat" and try one by an Ebay seller.  Even after I'd done that, I was very reluctant to give it a try as I felt I betraying my growth in creativity.  At least I could do a mock up.  No harm in that, right?  So I cut out the pattern, gave it a whirl on some quality green cotton velveteen, and had a good laugh at my efforts.  You do know that the reason I make my own patterns is because I can't read directions, and often the patterns just don't fit.  You'd think the hood on Dashenka's coat would have chased me off, but I persevered.  And, when I tried the gown on the doll I bought for my medieval project. it came to just below her knees.  Seriously!  What on earth was I thinking?

Well, there were these weird pattern pieces that seemed to have no use or place and I thought they might be for a shawl or cloak or something.  After my medieval "mini" disaster, I discovered what was meant by "attach bb to bb before cutting"!  But, of course this was written on the tops of the weird pattern pieces and the hems of the real ones.  Nothing in the written directions described this.  You just had to know how to read the actual paper pattern.  So I had a good laugh at myself, considered it a true mock up, and carried on.  

Lady Greensleeves's gown is made from a beautiful cotton velveteen that I've had on hand for a few years.  It is lined with gold silk dupioni and the front panel has an overlay of delicate gold netting - as are the sleeve caps.  Figuring out how to line this gown the way I line all my garments, would be a challenge to say the least.  The pattern lining only lined the upper part of the dress and that would leave a rather messy hem, even chunky.  The belled sleeves that fall from the elbow are lined with this gold silk as well.  I didn't like the designer's sleeves, so I softened them by making them more narrow.  I had to "make this my own" you understand.  Playing with this would also give me a chance to work with this 16" feminine body type. 

And, here's a another lark!  I only started researching medieval costuming after I was well into making the final gown.  I was looking for medieval head wear and jewelry ides and discovered so very many different styles from this time period.  It gave me ideas that I've stashed away in a Pinterest gallery, and I want to stay with this awhile.  After I got the hang of it, dressing this doll, I started thinking of what I could do next, and better, on my own.

Lady Greensleeves wears a wimple beneath the hat I designed for her.  I guess I haven't made a little hat in awhile and remember that I do enjoy making them.  In my research, I found so many images of wimples, long and short.  Sometimes they were called veils, and perhaps the term "wimple" only described scarves wrapped tightly around the head.  Not sure.  I was making this up, designing as I went along, and found some wonderful images of women wearing them beneath their hats or crowns.  Was it for style or modesty that these were worn?  I will find out in time. 

Her hat was modeled off of one designed by Franklin Mint for their Guinevere doll.  Again, I made it "my own" by doing it a bit differently.  The crown of it is the velvet of the gown, and the sides are the gold silk with the same netting overlay.  Vintage French metallic trim was added, as well as a band of flat braid.  I have spent HOURS, literally, looking at trims on Etsy for future projects and have some gorgeous ones coming in the mail.  The gown is trimmed with a vintage French metallic trim I bought sometime last year or so ago.  Its nice to have trims like this on hand.  These vintage metallic trims must be sewn on by hand.  The French ones are the best.  To me.
 
Then of course, we needed her jewels and belt.  So back to Pinterest I went.  I looked at pages and pages of medieval jewelry, alternating my search for more trimmings as well as beads.  I could get lost on Pinterest for hours, and have.  Etsy, too. 

 Not being a jeweler or metal smith, I took an afternoon and drove up to Grass Valley to see what Beads Galore might have.  I looked at everything.  I mean everything!  $135 and two and a half hours later, I drove home and started designing the choker she's wearing.  I found a similar necklace on Pinterest and knew this to be the one.  It had to work with the scoop neckline of the gown.  I made a pair of earrings for her and finally the requisite cross on a long chain.

Her belt was the last thing I added and pushed to get that done.  I was going to do one of ribbon falling from the medallion, but the trim for this did not show up in the mail today, and I really wanted to finish this and move on.  Women did wear chain linked belts, so why not try one?  This lovely chain is more delicate than the kind I would have normally used for this purpose, but it was one of yesterday's purchases and I think it works well.  Lady Greensleeves is wearing a pair of green brocade mules that will never be seen, and I did not make, so I've omitted a photo.  For future medieval and renaissance costumes, Facets Boutique, owned by Marcia Friend, has lovely satin mules for these Tonner dolls.

Today is the spring equinox and Lady Greensleeves is walking the grounds of an enchanting medieval castle like that of Scotney Castle in Kent.  Welcome spring, my friends! 

Love,
Melissa