Thursday, March 30, 2023

Cissy's Night Out at the Golden Dragon Cafe

One of the things I most enjoyed as a child was going out for Chinese food during a holiday.  It was a treat that we all enjoyed.  It didn't happen more than once or twice a year because we just didn't have the money, but when we did, we ordered several dishes and took our time sharing and savoring the wonderful food.  I especially loved the dinnerware and the tiny teapot and little cups with no handles.  The fortune cookie at the end of the meal delighted me no end, and I believed what ever the little slip of paper said.  It was magic.

When we got up to leave, my father would stay behind and visit with the owner.  Sometimes this lasted a very long time.  I never knew what they were talking about, but as an adult, today, I would guess the war, and San Francisco...things like that.

We'd often come in the back door since there was better 

parking and to the right as you'd walk into the Tao Tao Cafe in Sunnyvale, there was a beaded curtain and behind it, "the den of sin".  That was where people went to drink cocktails like the one on the little neon sign above the door outside.  We'd sit in the waiting area chairs with our teacups and my sister would pretend to read the tea leaves at the bottom of our cups.  Of course, I believed all this, too, since this was such an exotic place.  It was magic.  It was dark.  There were little lights strung and Chinese lanterns and miniature lanterns and paintings of Chinese people in traditional dress.  Life was different back then.  A place like a Chinese restaurant was a journey to another land and you could live this, just for the moment.

The first known Chinese restaurant in America, Canton Restaurant, opened in San Francisco in 1849.  It originally arrived with the flood of Chinese immigrants to California in the mid-nineteenth century - mostly from Canton province, by the Gold Rush and fleeing 


economic problems and famine in China.  By 1880, there were more than 100,000 Chinese people living in the U.S.  Restaurants had begun to crop up to feed the growing population of workers, missing the flavors of home.  The dishes had to be modified to use available ingredients as many were only found in China.  The dishes were also tweaked to accommodate American palates.

By the 1930's, Chinese restaurants went upscale with the merchant visa.  By the 1940's, after the Chinese Exclusion Act was repealed, the cuisine had gone mainstream and Chinese restaurants were ubiquitous.
Increased prosperity after WWII saw more Americans able to dine out and more often, and authenticity came into vogue.  Classic Americanized dishes like chop suey were abandoned in favor of more authentic and regional dishes.  Chinese dishes like General Tso's Chicken, invented by a Hunanese chef in the 1950's, were brought to the U.S. soon after.

Interestingly enough, there was no such thing as a fortune cookie in China.  As early as the 1870's, some Japanese sweet shops started making little crackers that were folded into shapes which allowed a message to be tucked inside the bend.  These original crackers would have been darker in color and made with miso and sesame, giving them a less sweet taste than the cookies we enjoy today.

It is believed that the fortune cookies of today arrived with the Japanese immigrants in California and Hawaii in the late 1800's and early 1900's.  


By the 1950's, the desire for easy meals to feed your family produced the canned Chinese food by Chun King.  If a housewife wished to put an exotic meal on the table, all she had to do was open a can.  We ate it.  And we thought it was a treat, too!  I have to laugh because it really is just awful.  Perhaps the American palate has developed over time, but back then, a Chun King meal on the table was delicious.  About the only canned Chinese food I'll buy is La Choy's Chowmein noodles for my Chinese chicken salads.

Sadly we don't go out for Chinese food anymore now that I can make several dishes and my husband thinks they're better than anything you get in a restaurant.  Phooey!  I thoroughly enjoy going out for Chinese food and don't mind one little bit if its not the best.  Except for the Hot and Sour Soup.  That has to be good or I'm not coming back!

And so when I was designing Cissy's new 1950's Mandarin style 

dress, I couldn't help but think that this was something she'd wear for a night out on the town.  

While the segue into making her a kimono for Cherry Blossom season was fun, I had all this lovely fabric arriving from China.  This beautiful yellow-gold in a dragon embroidery was the first I wished to play with.  

I'd been saving off lots of pattern images from the 50's specifically in the Mandarin style and chose a typical, full skirted dress with the bodice designed in the Mandarin style to make up the fabric in.  I put some effort into this as the pattern I made will continue to be modified for other Chinese style dresses for her.

I'm assuming that there was a resurgence of this style back in the 50's, as I found several designs I'd like to reproduce for Cissy.  The 1920's and 30's also enjoyed the style, but in a design appropriate for the decade.  Everything old is new again.
The pattern for Cissy's Golden Dragon Cafe dress is the second image seen in this posting.  I included standard black pumps and white gloves to complete the look.

Cissy wears a pair of real jade earrings with a Chinese symbol, in gold, in the center.  Her hair sticks were fun to make.

I checked.  Both Japanese and Chinese women wear hair sticks, but not for the purpose of pure decoration.  They are used to hold the hair in place with up-dos.

Cissy's are gold sticks with little gold butterflies, blue flowers and a cloisonné bead.  Once again, they are made from cut down bamboo skewers, painted with metallic gold acrylic, then fashioned for jewelry to be dangled.

I have a pin vise that makes tiny holes in wood like a drill, but 
operated by hand. A throw back to my miniature days.  This is pure fiddly work but they come out so nice and are enjoyable to design.

I have a literal ton of Chinese style beads and jewelry findings now for the many costumes I'll make Cissy.  They are beautiful little works of art in their own right.
A view from behind.
Believe it or not, the first thing I made was her purse.  The lovely kiss lock frames are superb to work with.  They have tiny holes in the frame and you stitch the cloth to the frame through the holes.  

She also needed a Chinese take-out box and after much searching, I found the perfect one which I added a silver wire handle to for authenticity.  I've provided the clip art for you in the case you wish to make one or more for your own dolls.

The little box you see the take-out carton and purse on belonged to my mother.  She called it her Chinese magic box and bought it in San Francisco's Chinatown when she first came here from New Orleans.  It opens on hinges with several compartments.  It must be 70-80 years old.

The little lantern that folds up was the kind that the Tao Tao Cafe had on its shelves and on the check-out counter.  It is extremely difficult to find these today, but I'm always on the hunt for small items like this as doll accessories.

Just in case you were looking for an excuse to go to a Chinese restaurant, July 20th is National Fortune Cookie Day.  Yes, its a way off, but mark it on your calendars and go enjoy some Mongolian Chicken and Orange Peel Beef.  My favorites!  I'll leave you with a popular fortune cookie fortune.

"We must always have old memories and young hopes", Melissa


San Francisco 1880

San Francisco Chinatown 1950


Chun King!

Chinese take-out template


My new wall clock.

Gourmet Magazine, March 1944

From the 50's

Vintage Los Angeles Menu


 


Sunday, March 12, 2023

Cissy's Cherry Blossom Season

Last night I was thinking back in time to a season long ago when I belonged to an online Bleuette club and was only creating accessories to scale for dolls.  I didn't begin sewing until 2011, and loved working in wood, fibers and paint.  People may have referred to me as a miniaturist back then, but the 1:12 scale was not my thing.  It was creating accessories for dolls that couldn't be purchased.  If I couldn't buy it, I made it.  Today, the same thing applies to doll clothing.  

What I was primarily looking for was my roots in loving things Japanese.  Yes, I'm a Sinophile, loving and having great interest in all things Chinese, but there was a time when the art and ancient cultures of Japan were foremost on my mind.  I don't exactly recall the when and how, but there was a doll artist that cut Asian eyes into a Bleuette's greenware (poured and hardened slip before its fired), and she was the cutest thing imaginable.  The joy and collectability of having 

an Asian Bleuette took off and other artists began making them.  At one time, I had four or five of them.  Today I have none.  Why?  Because I stopped playing with them and they needed restringing, and I didn't know anyone who could do this.  I sold them.  Yes, I regret this, but honestly, if I kept every doll I'd ever purchased, they'd need a house this size of their own.  So, I went into an old album of photos from long ago and spent two hours looking at all the things I once made, and (regrettably) sold, for these dolls.  The money helped me buy the dolls and things I wanted, but some of these accessories were real treasures.  I hope they still exist in someone's collection and are enjoyed today.

Two of my favorite accessories were a Hagoita paddle, a wooden, fan-like piece, women would carry in parades.  The other was a miniature shell game.  I'd purchased a bag of shells and carefully selected matching ones and painted tiny matching images in them for a game, like cards, where you'd turn them over, mix them around, they turn them over two at at time, until you made all the
matches.  Both of these can be seen in photos at the end of this post.  This beautiful Asian Bleutte with the shelf of Japanese items, was one of my favorites.  She was like a little geisha with her white face. The outfit was made by Bluebird Textiles.  In the photo you can see the geta I made for these dolls, a basket of Japanese paper dolls, some origami that I folded, and lots of little doll figures that were purchases.  I made the shelving and the low table.  I also made the Japanese instrument propped up against this doll.  I still have some of this stuff, but of course the doll is gone to a new owner.

It was a wonderful and exciting time and going through all these photos brought back wonderful memories.  I was honestly trying to remember what other things I loved about Japanese art and culture, besides the food, cherry blossom season, the Japanese Tea Gardens in San Francisco, the ornate buildings, the beautiful kimonos, hair styles and hair sticks, and the list kept growing.  Especially with this photo walk
down Cherry Blossom Lane.  

After completing the Mardi Gras costumes, I wanted very badly to make a cheongsam for Cissy.  Someone at some point had to have made one for her or a doll that size.  Sometimes a pattern just gives me a good jump start.  I could only find one for a 16" antique doll, but I also found a vintage pattern by Brown House Dolls for a kimono fitting a 20"-21" doll.  I bought it.  Spring was coming, Cissy would look beautiful in a kimono, and I really wanted to try this.  So I've been immersed in the kimono world and the beauty of Japanese culture once again.

Did the pattern fit?  Not even close.  It was made for a chubby childlike doll this size.  So I spent some time refashioning the pattern to fit Cissy.  I liked it because it wasn't the typical full-length kimono and had a floor length skirt beneath it.  It could be lengthened.  It can be altered in many ways and there are as many variations of kimonos
and obis as you can think up.  I was looking for ideas when I came upon the work of Kyo, a Japanese seamstress in Canada, who sews extraordinary kimonos, or yukatas for American Girl dolls.  I bought two and will certainly buy another two soon.  She sews them all by hand and enjoys the creativity of making each costume unique.  I attribute what I've done for Cissy to this extraordinary artist who inspired it.  The yukata is made from day wear cottons, and the kimonos are used for ceremonies and special occasions.  

The concept of the kimono had country roots in being a simple robe that was easy to make on folded fabric.  It was origami in nature.  Simple lines creating wonderous beauty.  

While awaiting Kyo's creations, I was determined to try something new and wished to work with decorating plain paper parasols.  I was also awaiting embroidered satins from China through an Etsy seller called PoppyLollipop, for fabrics for cheongsams and dresses for Cissy.  I have quite a bit of bits and pieces coming from China 
currently, but those will all be shared in time.  As it turns out, Kyo's yukatas arrived after I finished Cissy's, so they weren't much help to me.  I do have them for reference now and will possibly make them for other dolls in the future, or next cherry blossom season, Cissy may get a full-length one.  But her obis came just in time, and I'll attribute what I made for Cissy by her work.  When it comes to authenticity, go to the source.

Cissy's kimono was not easy to make.  Partly because I had to read someone else's pattern instructions and partly because I was altering someone else's pattern to fit her.  I did three mock-ups before the final one got made.  

In looking at other people's work, including Tonner's for his Memoirs of a Geisha dolls, The sleeves seem to be the main challenge in construction.  With Brown's pattern, it was truly done by folding and sewing.  I had a lot of fitting issues between the width of shoulder and the length of the sleeve.  By that time, I wasn't into making a 
fourth go at it, so a lot of seam ripping and resewing was required.  I love how easy some people can make their kimonos look, but I struggled.  And that's okay.  It keeps the gray matter healthy!  And truth be told, this costume was all about the parasol!  Which I will get to shortly.

I did consider adding a trim to the neck opening and discovered that this line of trim has as many variations as any other aspect of the costume.  On my next try at this, I will sharpen the neckline, this one is rounded, and apply the trim.  The neck scarf or inside collar was another aspect I needed to explore.

I made a light pink cotton batiste rectangular piece just to tuck around her neck, but Kyo's was actually sewn on.  I will try this in the future.  As well as lining the sleeves, instead of Brown's fold and sew style.  I'd only had enough of this cherry blossom fabric to make the costume that I did, and that was another factor in not exploring further.
This charming little obi was the second one I made.  I'd ordered this red Asian fabric and it took forever to arrive.  I love it so much that I asked the seller if she could get more in.  She was able to, and when she does, I'll purchase two yards to have on hand.  The print size will work with a variety of doll sizes.

The first obi I made was in dark blue, dark red and a bit of dark olive green.  It had long tails draping beneath the decorative "bundle", and it was quite nice, but it did nothing to make the costume "pop".  When the red fabric arrived, it was like magic.  Who would have thought it would do the trick and work so well with this light blue fabric, but it did.

I used the yellow border on the first one, as I did on the second.  When I found this piece of light pink embroidered satin among my stash, I knew I'd found the perfect blend for the pleated detail.  I must have tried seven different variations of mixed fabrics for the obi before settling on this one.
The bundle on Cissy's obi is a combination of two large, simple bows, one sewn on top of the other.  

I have to mention here that part of my challenge with Brown's pattern was that the width of the sleeve was so wide that it wouldn't allow the wrapping of an obi at the waist.  I shake my head just thinking about what I had to do to make this work.  When the time comes to make another kimono, the experience will have paid off.

The charm hanging from the wrap belt, or obi, was also inspired by Kyo's work.  This one has a cherry blossom on the end.

Cissy's long skirt is made from silk.  Does this work with the cotton kimono?  I think so.
Now I could have some fun.  I love hair sticks.  I had a lot of fun finding tiny ones for the Asian Bleuettes back in the day.  They were plastic, an no, they weren't tooth picks.  I don't know why, but it is very difficult find little things like that these days.  I kept a lot of the little extras I had on hand knowing that they would be difficult to replace in the future.

I did an online look at various hair sticks and loved the ones that had dangling ornamentation.  Cissy's are made from bamboo scewers cut down, sanded and painted.  I used a tiny hand drill to make holes near the tops to insert the jewelry findings.  These tiny plastic flowers came in an assortment of colors and I chose light and dark pink to play up the cherry blossom theme.

I made pearl dangling earrings for Cissy to go with the costume.
Here's a back view of the hair sticks.  Cissy's hair was already "up" from the Mardi Gras costuming, so this worked perfectly to hold the sticks.
I purchased these slip on sandals for Cissy from another Etsy seller.  They're as close to geta as Cissy is going to wear.  

Someday I'd like to try hiking boots or sports shoes for her on bases like this.  Tonner did this kind of thing for Ellowyne Wilde and other high-heeled dolls, so I know it's possible.
As I mentioned earlier, my jump off point into cherry blossom season began with the desire to make decorative paper parasols.  I have several in varying sizes and colors and after some deliberation, decided to try decoupaging them.

I had to muck up two of them, which is sad, but how else was I going to practice?  I tried the decoupage method on both a colored parasol and a white one.  My goal was to create the lacquered parasol look.  I discovered through a bit of research that the lacquered parasols are used for rainy days.  Makes sense.  The lacquered sheen repels the rain.  These were going to be used for the Chinese costuming I was going to do, AM going to do, but Japanese women enjoy them as well so I decided to make a cherry blossom one.  I discovered there have been many beautiful parasols done with a 
cherry blossom theme and set off to find the perfect clip art or images to create one of my own for Cissy.  

If you ever wish to try this, I'll eliminate the frustrating experimentation for you.  Use the lightest tracing paper for white parasols.  Use images you can trim neatly on plain paper for the colored parasols.  The tissue paper blends into the white parasol but shows horribly on colored ones.  Use matte ModPodge for your decoupaging glue.  Paint it thinly on the surface and wide enough to support the image you are using.  I do not recommend using the ModPodge as a top layer.  Your parasol will look like it was beautifully painted without it.  With it, it's a mess.  No lacquered parasols.  Okay,  Try it and prove me wrong, but I've already done the experimenting.

Here's the most important thing.  Once you have the image on the parasol, let it set up for a minute or two, then close the parasol and reshape the folds.  They will not stick together, I
promise.  Once the decoupage has cured thoroughly, you can open and fold the parasol as normal.  If you don't do this and leave the parasol open to dry the decoupaged images, it will never fold back down.  It's too stiff.  Its glue.

One more note.  Tissue paper doesn't always go through your printer nicely.  It jams up inside.  So what I did was lightly glue the tracing paper on the top edge - the one that goes into the printer - to plain paper.  You'll get beautiful, full color images on the tracing paper and no paper jams.

I chose this swirling cherry blossom pattern with bluebirds for Cissy's parasol.  It is very like the ones made for humans.
Lastly, I needed one more accessory.  I love origami, and I love the beautiful little cranes.  They have a wonderful history and are decoratively used for many purposes.  According to Japanese tradition, folding 1,000 cranes gives a person a chance to make one special wish come true.  The crane is believed to live for 1,000 years and that is the meaning behind folding 1,000 origami cranes.

I found this very special seller on Etsy who sells tiny origami cranes and purchased some from her.  Her store is EigenCrafts.  She popped a few little origami pillow stars into my box, so I decided to make a tiny mobile for Cissy to hold.  

I may not be able to travel to Japan to see the blossoming cherry trees, although I have seen them in Washington, D.C.  By sewing costuming for my dolls and learning about the history and traditions surrounding them them as I go along, I can go anywhere without the hassles of air travel.  For me, it is very much like the books I read, but an interactive experience.  

I hope you'll enjoy the many images I selected for this posting.  Included are some of my dolls, the work I did for the Asian Bleuettes, some fun, and some very lovely illustrations of Japanese culture.

Sayonara, Melissa


Blaire in Kyo's creation

Tonner's Tiny Betsy

Ruby Red Galleria Sakura Witch Lia



Bleuettes, Tiny Betsy, Wendy Lawton

My first Asian Bleuette

The shell game.  Half inch shells.

Mini Bleuette and Pagoda Trunk

Mini Bleuette in kimono and geta

Hagoita Paddle

Bleuette and Hagoita Paddle






Dolly Dingle