From My Little Hole in the Wall: June 2020

"Several events have occurred over the last few weeks. My dearest friend, Charles, is off to Egypt once again, and at his farewell salon party the other night, if I'm correct, I noticed a stolen kiss between Kitty and Charles. A hanky was lifted to her eyes as she turned from the door, but she smiled widely and returned to the party as she knows there will be letters and by next spring, she will join him on a dig. A lot can happen in a year, but I do believe they will always remain close.

Another event, should we call it one, was that a letter arrived from Kitty's mother stating that Kitty will be received by the queen in a Royal Presentation during the London Season next summer. Only the daughters of British aristocracy and the nouveau riche from the states are accepted as debutantes to be introduced into society. Kitty's eyes popped open, and her pretty little jaw dropped long enough to hold a golf ball. I was so tickled for her. And, in a separate letter to myself, her mother, naturally, asked me to make her a gown.

Come to think of it, anything else that has occurred pales in comparison to watching Kitty learn to curtsy. And, now my cup of tea has gone cold and I've much to do." - Madame Hoover

Royal Presentations, from what I've gathered, began in Victorian England and blossomed into the Edwardian era. They were held each summer during the London Season, and were also referred to as Court Presentations.

When the date of a drawing room was announced, letters poured into the Lord Chamberlain, suggesting names of ladies, debutantes, for presentation. Everyone who had "kissed the Queen's hand" was able to nominate another for presentation. But, it wasn't guaranteed that any name submitted was accepted. The list underwent careful scrutiny by both the Lord Chamberlain and the Queen. Her Majesty would only receive those who "wore the white flower of a blameless life".

There were three qualifications. The presented must be of good moral and social character. Presentation must be made by someone who had already been presented. And last, was their social status. Considered were the daughters of country gentry, town gentry, n

aval and military officers, persons engaged in large scale commerce, doctors, barristers, bankers and merchants.

Once selected, invitations were sent out three weeks prior to the presentation. (Kitty's case was an exception though.) This gave the excited young women time to practice their curtsy and put together the proper attire. It would take an entire chapter to detail the requirements of dress, so let us be brief in saying that the rules were strict when it came to length of trains, veils, trims and accessories. A head piece would consist of a veil and ostrich plumes. Long white gloves were required unless the lady was in mourning. Accepted accessories were bouquets, handkerchiefs and ostrich plumed fans.

The debutante would wear white, however her gown could be adorned with tasteful and colorful flowers. White was chosen as it signified moral purity and chasteness. While I researched many gown styles for Kitty to wear, I kept coming back to the one worn by Rose on Downton Abbey. Who could possibly forget that episode? If nothing else on the show emphasized who these people were, this episode did. It occurred to me as I studied Rose's gown, that it had similarities, references to that of The Shepherdess, a theme of innocence used time and again by artists throughout time. This enchanted me, as I'm a pure romantic at heart.

I chose an off white Shantung silk for the gown and silk tulle for the veil. I'm going to state that Kitty's gown is loosely based on that of Rose's, although the design is fairly close. One of the main distinctions, is that Rose's is covered in a creamy lace. I'm laughing as I write this because I tried. I gave it the good o

ld one-two try, but the construction of the gown with an addition of overall lace could not be figured out. So let's get past that. Besides, Kitty needed a unique gown suited to who she is.

The gown is constructed of a long bodice with narrow shoulders, fully lined. The inset you see above the neckline for modesty was actually another requirement for low cut gowns back then. I used a snip of the tulle to create this. The paniers were the detail reminiscent of The Shepherdess, and these became the focal point of the gown.

First of all, they are not true paniers that lay atop a skirt like a gathered apron. These are sewn into the side seams of the skirt. I'm half tempted to suggest that Rose's had a bit of padding beneath them to make them pouf out. Kitty enjoys her svelte figure, so we kept them smooth. There is a tongue, or panel in front, for want of a better description, that is part of the panier design. It is separate, but was ladder stitched at the top sections of the paniers to allow for beading running down the seam line.

While the dress took some designing and "engineering", it was the trimming of the gown that would take the most effort. I'd been on the hunt for some fabulous beading or ideas for beading when I came up the vintage beading from the 1920's that was offered by an Etsy seller in the U.K. It was just the right size with seed beads, and given the vintage as well as where it came from, I couldn't resist even at the cost. Which was dear. I knew it would be perfect for trimming the neckline and hoped I could use it on the hem of the paniers.

I don't know if you've ever used bead trimming before, but I had not. I asked the seller how to cut it. She indicated that there were little knots in-between the sets of design. Hah! Some knots. I tried to cut next to on e of them and beads scattered everywhere. So I had to devise a way to resew the floral bead design on the ends to keep them secure. While I did this, I realized that this beading was not that difficult to do. So I found some clear seed beads with silver centers and used them for the beading on Kitty's paniers. Like anything that is new, yet will be repetitious, its takes a few tries before you understand what works and doesn't, what looks best as well. So I made two rows of this floral beading going down along the centers of the front panel, and extending to the curved paniers. There is also a row of beading from the side seams for a couple of inches toward the lace.

I used a vintage French silver metallic lace as a bed for the satin flowers. This metallic lace is actually quite nice to work with and I was able to trim it at angles on the ends to create a nice des

ign. The flowers were also an Etsy purchase by an artist in San Francisco. I chose purple and gray mini roses. I've been told that I'm crazy with how much I'll put into a creation, but I'm not that crazy. If I were a premiere artiste, I would make my own bullion roses from silk ribbon. I've seen them done. But, I'm not, so there you go. I could have chosen light pink, but it seemed too expected a color. I like to be different. One of the funny things I discovered when finishing this gown was that seed beads have not changed over the decades. I ended up having to redo one of the floral beadings on the neckline and the beads I used are exactly the same as the ones they used then. How could I then tell that the beading I bought from the U.K. was truly vintage 1920's? First of all, I trust the dealer who deals in antique trims, but it was the aging of the thread used and how it was tied and knotted. Observations.

Next, I tackled the veil. This is a cut tulle veil. Yes, there is such a thing. It is perfectly acceptable to have a cut tulle veil as well as one that is edged in either lace or a binding. This was all new to me, so I did extensive research on how and what of "bridal wear". Heaven help the person that calls this Kitty's wedding dress. In actuality, these gowns were made to resemble wedding dresses as they would give suitors an idea of their bride to be. Which reminds me of something I wished to point out.

The debutantes presented at court were done so to indicate that they were good choices for marriage, as well as introducing them into society. If there's a difference in distinction. For girls like Kitty, they would have come from the nouveau riche, wealth made during the Industrial Age. While the states were filling up with families like Kitty's, the upper classes in England were beginning to struggle. If a young man from a noble family could marry new money from the states, the girl would obtain a title, and the manor house would once again thrive. This was also the theme of Downton Abbey.

Back to the veil. This silk tulle cut veil is in three layers. The top layer falls to Kitty's elbows, the middle length, to her knees, and the longest is a curved length that sweeps the floor behind her. I used a silk tulle embroidered lace that I had on hand to trim the curved end. Satin flowers were sewn to the center end of the veil.

I also made Kitty a flapper's head band of silver Swarovski crystal beads with a

gray satin rosette on each end. This was made with two wires of even length, beaded, then twisted together at the ends and rolled into a loop. The loop provides a place to pin the headband into her wig.

I then had the opportunity to make a pair of silk high heels to match the dress. I think I'm done making high heels. They are just too much work. Making the shoes for this gown was different in that the other shoes I made for Kitty, besides the boots, were in two parts. This was our normal shoe with a seam up the back. But, since they were not leather, they were made with two pieces sewn together in the "u", sewn up the back, then turned inside out to gather at the edge before gluing them to the sole. So needless to say, they are short on sturdiness, as they are fabric. What I did this time, was add a bit of very thin leather to the inside of the back for stability. It was a nice finish. The heels are wrapped in silk as well.

Finally I had to decide on bouquet or ostrich fan. I'd sent away to the U.K. for these fine baby ostrich feathers, and when I told the seller what they were for, she hand selected the nicest, prettiest, baby feathers possible. Fifty of them. So I thought best to use a few more. I looked up ostrich fans and discovered that they were used by flappers, which intrigued me. So Kitty definitely needed one. I found a website, once again in the U.K., that made and sold ostrich fans for weddings, and loosely used one of their designs for Kitty's. Below you can see the fan from their website.

All the while creating this Royal Presentation outfit, I did so knowing that this was the last one. The last outfit I'd be making for Kitty. I both wanted to be done and to keep sewing for her forever. Without looking, I think I've been working on this for four months straight. I'm saddened that her story is now over for me, but gladdened that it is just beginning for her and Heather. I feel like I've lived a lifetime with Kitty. I've traveled with her and learned so much about the 1920's, the styles, the lifetimes, spots in history, and details I never would have thought to read up on. And, as I finish writing this blog, I know this will be the last time I share Kitty's story with you. I hope you've enjoyed it as much as I have. Let's wish her well and Bon Voyage as she plans her European tour starting this fall.

"There are stacks of large costume boxes filling my hallway. All of these tied with sturdy string and filled with Kitty's trousseau for her European tour. I believe these are being sent by train to her home. A porter will be coming to fetch them tomorrow. I bought Kitty a special gift for her travels that she can open on her way home. It is a diary for her to journal her hopes and dreams, thoughts and anecdotes from her travels. I think one day that she might become a writer. Maybe her notes will give her inspiration.

She's promised to stay in touch, but I think it unlikely. This young woman has a full life ahead of her and I hope Charles will be a part of it. They have so much in common. I'm not one given to displays of sentimentality, but I noticed my cheeks are damp as I write this evening. Nonesense! I will miss the evenings we've spent reading together, playing cards, hearing of her adventures from the day, her laughter at the small parties I give in my salon, her company on rainy days..." - Madame Hoover