Wednesday, November 21, 2012

To Grandmother's House We Go!

Happy Thanksgiving, with love from Lettie!
It is the day before Thanksgiving and I'm exhausted from my whiskers to my tail.  I think this was the very most difficult outfit I have ever made, and rest assured, I will not be sewing ribbon trim on a dress again for a very long time.

I've more to share, and wish to discuss the creative process in making this ensemble, but there's a fire to build in the hearth, a turkey to roast, and a day of rest.

Lettie is visiting Grandmother in the country this Thanksgiving, and promises not to spill one drop of gravy on her winter white dress.

Love,
Miss E. Mouse

Thursday, November 8, 2012

A Cornucopia of Garments

Polly's dress in pink.
The cornucopia, or horn of plenty, is widely known as a symbol of abundance and nourishment.  A large horn-shaped containter, it overflows with the abundance of good things.  Originating in classic antiquity, it has continued as a symbol in Western art and is particulary associated with Thanksgiving.  

The cornucopia seems to be well represented on Victorian postcards, and in fanciful illustrations, but how many of us ever really used one as a Thanksgiving Day table centerpiece or festive decoration for autumn?  The horn of plenty has always intrigued me, and I went on a long and vigilant search to find just the right little cornucopia to enhance Polly Pratt's Thanksgiving Day Outfit.

Polly's dress in autumn peach.
When I set out to make her a holiday dress, finding an appropriate garment to respresent Thanksgiving wasn't easy.  From the existing paper doll pages that I own, there were none!  But, I love plaid and this little pink dress with its round white collar and cuffs, seemed to say "Thanksgiving" to me.  I was also intrigued with a small sunbonnet variation that a friend of mine, Arlene Hayes, had made, so I set out to make a pilgrim hat based upon the sunbonnet.  When I was just five years old, we made pilgrim hats and collars in kindergarten, and had a parade.  I wore both, everyday for a month my mother once told me.  I even have a photograph of myself (somewhere!) on a swingset wearing this costume.  So naturally Polly needed a pilgrim hat so she could march in the parade.


Sheila's Illustration
A few months ago I began trying to find an exact match to this pink plaid, and came up rather empty-pawed.  I did retain two of my purchases however.  One was an autumn-peach perfect plaid, and the other a modern wobbly plaid, but in the right shade of pink.  The autumn hues would need ivory accents, but the pink could easily retain the white accents of the illustration.  Not knowing which I'd like best, I made two.  One of each, just to see how they would turn out.  Included would be a sunbonnet/pilgrim hat, a cornucopia and of course, the little blue book she holds, which I fashioned with a real leather cover.


The bonnet mock-up as a sunbonnet
The dresses, remarkably, made up rather quickly, but there are details to the construction of the pockets and turned up cuffs that could only be detected from personal, close examination.  I never do anything easy.  The bonnet is a redrawn-redraft of the Bleuette sunbonnet.  Its a far cry from how the original French pattern was supposed to be made, but I'll be darned if I could figure out how they intended it to be made.  So I made my own.

The bonnet mock-up

While making Polly's Thanksgiving Day outfit, I became interested in the paper dolls of Berta and Elmer Hader, who drew their paper dolls in the early 1920's.  The little girls were often wearing such bonnets, so this became of equal importance to me (the designing of one), since I may make a few outfits from their illustrations.


Berta and Elmer Hader's Paper Doll
Today I began the long and tedious process to make Lettie Lane's autumn outfit.  Currently, as I am just in the design process, I am a bit stumped by the coat, or rather how to design the pattern, but I know it will come to me in a day or two.  There are many components to this one, and one of them is a pair of gloves.  I'm going to try a pair.  No, they will not have fingers, but I will try to make them with a thumb.  I have to TRY!  They are represented in the illustration, and Lettie's hands will get cold when the November winds begin to blow.

As this year is coming to a close, and I reflect back on what I have done so far, it certainly can be considered a Cornucopia of Garments.  A wealth of abundance. 

I may not post again until the ensemble is complete, and so I will wish you all a cornucopia of wishes, and a Happy Thanksgiving.

Love,
Miss E. Mouse






Lettie's Autumn Stroll Outfit

Sunday, October 28, 2012

Little Lettie Gets a Costume, too!

"Oooo!  You should be on my dress!"
Not to be outdone by that Polly Pratt, Little Lettie begged for her very own costume, and so I whipped one up for her. 

It is no secret that I adore and collect vintage images, and Halloween illustrations are no acception.  This one with its witch bordered table cloth topped with what looks like a pumpkin cornucopia, and a plate of chocolate donuts has two little children ready to enjoy some Halloween treats.  The little girl wears a yellow gown edged with a kitty border and sweet little pilgrim shoes. 

The vintage Halloween illustration.
I chose to use a lovely cotton sateen that I purchased from the U.K. on ebay, and edged the sleeves with, almost the last, of this pretty cotton eyelet lace. The dress is fully lined with a light yellow taffetta to give it volume (and for me, the ease of not having to sew in a hem under the kitties). I do not remember where I purchased the lace, but its been a favorite to use, so the hunt for more will commence shortly.  I made little iron-on kitties from the black satin I used for Polly's and Daisy's witch hats.  The whiskers are sewn in with embroidery thread.  I used a 4mm black silk ribbon for the bows on the sleeves.


All the way around.
Little Lettie's pilgrim shoes are miniature versions of Daisy's.  She also wears all the way up white stockings, and her curls are topped with a red silk bow.  I had alot of fun with this one.


Her costume in the works.
I still prefer, or feel more comfortable designing and sewing for the larger girls, but given time, I'm sure sewing for the 10 1/2" Bleuette-sized body will come with more ease.  For now, this is it.  I've plenty of ideas for next Halloween's costumes, but they will have to wait until next year.  Should I ever acquire a little boy Bleuette, I'll certainly complete this vignette with a blue suit for him and that wonderful table cloth.

The moon is almost full, and this Halloween promises to have four little girls from this little hole in the wall, having a wonderful Halloween party!

Love,
Miss E. Mouse


Happy Halloween Little Lettie!
Shoes should be fun to wear!  Cute linings help.

Friday, October 19, 2012

Little French Witch Costume

Polly Pratt's Halloween Party
Polly is eagerly awaiting October 31rst as she's giving her first, and a very splendid Halloween party.  Her costume is sweetly adorable beginning with a white silk dress whose sleeves are edged in lace.  Her lilac silk panier and corset are all one piece, like a little ballerina tutu that hooks in the back.  Draping her young shoulders is an orangey-red cape to match that of Daisy's, and her gorgeous little ruffly witch hat tops her curls. 

Little French Witch Costume

Polly Pratt's first illustrated outfit is just as sweet as she is.

Wishing you all a fanciful Halloween as the autumn winds blow chilly and cool.


In the works...


With cauldron, broomstick and kitties
Sheila Young's Illustration

Socks and Fran Quinn's Polly Jane Shoes

A Fabulously Ruffled and Lined Hat

Love,
Miss E Mouse

Tuesday, October 16, 2012

An Elegant Victorian Halloween



Lettie and Daisy's Halloween Costumes
And, so it has been a wee bit over a month since I popped in to post a note.  Twelve of those days were spent on a true holiday road trip.  We took off for southern Utah and hiked some incredible trails on Boulder Mountain where the aspens were at peak change.  We also jotted down to Moab to hike the red rock canyons and cliffs, breathtaking in their form and physical challenges.  The change of pace and scenery were so welcomed, yet I hit the floor running as soon as we returned.  Isn't that always the way?

Upon returning I designated one day, for each piece, to design and create the items necessary to complete two sets of Lettie and Daisy's Halloween costumes.  During this time and preceding our holiday, I took a few photos of the costumes in process.  While I personally feel the candlestick hat is the most remarkable, it is the border of witches on the same costume that has illicited the most interest.  Unless you attempt to make something like the candlestick hat, it can be difficult to fully comprehend all that it took to create it. 

All those flocked witches!
Let's discuss the border of witches.  Victorian postcards and ephemera often show charming tots dressed in elaborately designed Halloween costumes.  These are not the costumes the children wear today, but more of a romantic turn of visual delight.  Ladies would wear elegant gowns with pointy witch hats, and goblins and demons would often fly or perch throughout the illustrations.  And, children could be seen wearing colorful Pierrot (French clown) costumes, and skirts bordered with witches flying on broomsticks.  In all the research I have done, I've never found a written description or process on how those witch borders were rendered.  Could it possibly have been just an illustrator's fancy?  Could they have been large cut-outs sewn on as patches?  What a lot of work that would have been!  And, we haven't yet crossed an actual costume like this stored away in some east coast attic trunk.  So, this is what I did.
Figuring out placement.
Some of you may remember the pumpkin costume I made last year, the second outfit I'd made.  On that page, of The Ladies' Home Journal, was an elegant gown bordered in witches.  I'd fully intended to make it, and had found some black netting with flocked witches on it, that would become iron-ons for the process.  A year went by, and the netting remained in the fabric box, so when this costume came up, I knew exactly what to do.  In short, the witches were cut out with the netting around them.  Under a paper towel, the images were pressed to the double-sided paper, then the witches were carefully cut out and pressed onto the border of the dress.  Easy?  Not really.  What I discovered along the way was that the netting sported five, maybe six styles of witches.  Some had hats tilted back.  Some had fully skirts.  Some had shorter broomsticks, and then there were smaller witches by half.  Just finding the exact matches and cutting out twenty (for two costumes) took an entire day.  In a perfect world, the witches would have been equal in size to half the length of where the yellow vest hits, but we do the best we can. 

Peeling the backings off.
I was asked if I had painted them.  Surely I'm flattered, but wet paint upon fiber swells the fibers and often bleeds, so the experience with painting floweres on the hat band I did earlier this year, was a one time process.  Another way you could do this is with a stencil and a black, permanant marker.  However, the flocked iron-on witches are exacting and pristine.
 
The candlestick hat was my other bane.  Out of all the buckram based hats I've made, this one posed the most challenges.  There are four basic shapes that needed to be created, then sewn together.  One was the brim, which is slightly turned up.  One is the cone of the crown.  There was also the candle base and the handle.  It took me two weeks to figure out the best approach, and I even tried a wire mesh sculpture which cut my little paws to pieces.  At one point, I purchased a crystal candlestick and tried to for the buckram around it.  Nothing worked.  I settled, finally, on building it from buckram and hand stitching the entire hat.  There is a little wood disc in the top that I drilled a hole through to set the candle in. 

A soft-sculpture with real candle.
Finding a candle the right size was also a trial, so I took tapers and with my exacto knife, carved the tips of the tapers down to the right scale.  To smooth the surfaces, I dipped them in boiling water for a few seconds.  Viola!  Candles for the hats.

Each dress was fully lined for ease of hem and adding volume.  The orangey-red cape-coat is also fully lined, as are the yellow vests.  You may recognize the vest pattern from the 4th of July costume.  The witch hat is a buckram base covered in heavy costume satin, with a yellow silk band.  As with all my hats, they, too, are fully lined.  Stockings were made and so were four pairs of shoes.  I'd run out of white lambskin, so I made the little bat slippers from the same silk as the dresses.  The bats are leather, which seemed appropriate (leathery bat wings and all).  And tiny thread loops sewn to the stockings keep the silk laces up on her legs. 

One other trial was in creating the Marie Antoinette sleeves of the candlestick hat costume.  These are half-moon fans of fabric edged with gathered lace, and ruched at the crook of the elbow.  Its the time it takes to figure these details out that (so essential in creating the overall look), is often daunting!

Right now I'm in the midst of Polly Pratt's costume, and the processes will be quite similar in approach.  She's very sweet to sew for since she is smaller in stature, and younger in age. 

Hope you're having a colorful autumn.  Enjoy each day and gather a few apples and leaves to decorate your own little hole in the wall.

Love,
Miss E. Mouse

Friday, September 14, 2012

When Polly Pratt Came to Play...

Welcome Polly Pratt!
The year was 1919 and Sheila Young was now illustrating paper dolls for Good Housekeeping.  As the windblown pages flew from the calendar tablet, a little girl about nine years old was introduced with fashions to reflect the changing times.  Still elaborately detailed with ruffles, collars, embroidery and all manner of fussy hats, Polly Pratt''s paper doll wardrobe would celebrate the world of feminine little girls from 1919 to 1921.


1919 Good Housekeeping's Polly
It came to mind sometime last spring that I might add Polly to my Sheila Young family of antique reproduction dolls.  You've met Daisy, Lettie Lane (inspired by Betty Bonnet who has brown hair), and now I'll introduce you to little Polly Pratt.  I phoned up Connie Zink, the artist of both my Daisy and Lettie, and we began to brainstorm on what it would take to come up with a Polly.  Connie knows her doll molds inside and out, and suggested the Steiner-C for my Polly.  I asked that she be smaller, as I see Lettie being about 12-years-old, and Polly's wardrobe and persona seemed that of a much younger child.  We came up with the idea to use the FS14B body, which would make Polly a 16" doll next to Lettie's eighteen inches.  Connie set to work, and my beautiful Polly was born!


Polly's First Halloween Costume
Currently she is still needing even a slip or some undies, but with Halloween approaching, and my customer having just ordered her own Polly, it was decided we must include a Halloween costume for Polly.  Notice that the illustration does include a slip, so at least she'll be modest when Halloween is over. 

This little charmer will of course need her own set of slopers, and I may approach the first by reducing a basic Lettie pattern by about 10%.  I really enjoy the idea of the baby doll style dresses and those above the knee.  There is an endless parade of sweet outfits with many adorable accessories in the Polly Pratt paper doll series.  Fear not!  Lettie will still be sewn for, but we may be doing these next year in tandem.  One for Polly, one for Lettie.  So many of the wardrobe themes overlap and they'll look especially darling displayed as sister dolls.

The dress under the cape-coat.
Meanwhile, the Halloween costume work continues.  I finished the base outfits for the orange-red cape-coat, and began the dresses for the candlestick hat costume.  Sometimes we have to actually sew something up before we can decide that we did it all wrong...and that's what I did over the last two days.  This costume will be all about the sleeves.  And, we continue...the creative process!

Love,
Miss E. Mouse


Saturday, September 8, 2012

Fear of Flying...On a Broomstick

Lettie Lane's Halloween Costumes
Up from my little hole in the wall, and taking a much needed breather here.  A perfect time to journal on process I've been going through to make these Halloween costumes for Lettie Lane.  I guess I've been at it for...well...since September the first. And, I feel like I've been working on the costumes for a month! 

As usual, I began drafting the patterns for both costumes.  I had honestly hoped these would be a snap, but not-so-strangely enough, they've been yet another real challenge.  As with anything I approach, I try to do the tough stuff first.  Well, that would be everything, it seems, with these costumes.  I can't wait to begin the hats, the shoes and the lantern.  Someday I'm going to learn to enjoy this, but for now, I'm still learning, and wouldn't you know, its the collar, once again, that gave me trouble. 

So what are we looking at?  There's a witch's costume and a Halloween candlestick hat costume.  The cape on the witch's costume is actually a coat, and I've a funny story to share.  After stitching together the mock up of this coat in muslin, I knew first of all that the collar was all wrong - too small, too round.  I also began to wonder how I was going to make welt pockets in the coat.  I'd gone so far as to gather up the sides and posted a letter to a friend of mine, Arlene, who is a genius at sewing for Bleuette.  I mentioned the pockets and showed her the illustrations.  She wrote back that what she'd observed in the illustration is a broom going under the coat and lifting up the back of it.  And that the lump I mistook for a pocket, was actually the shape of the broom handle!  How utterly embarrassed I was!  With all the painting background that I have, why wouldn't I have seen this?  I thanked her profusely, and had to chuckle a bit because it is so like me to make more of something than need be.  I guess I'm so used to detecting hidden details that I imagined a few that didn't exist!  How's that for humility?!  At least I didn't have to try welt pockets in the coat, but admit that I did make a few in small muslin squares just in case.



The mock up.  Lab coat vs. Halloween cape/coat.
Too small and wouldn't meet.
White.  I've also been sewing on alot of white fabric lately.  Here's the thing.  A watercolor illustrator's friend is the white of paper.  It is the base and background for all the art she paints.  So, it is a prevalent color.  To give myself a change of pace, I made the pumpkin-yellow vests first.  I used the same sloper pattern I drew for the 4th of July Patriotic costumes.  I still need to do a little tweeking to the pattern, but the basic shape was  there.  It took me four tries between the two vests to get the hooks in the right places and neatly sewn.  With thread loops and hooks, you have to decide if you wish the back seams to match up or slightly overlap.  Proper placement of both the loop and the hook is essential.  If I don't like the way hook is stitched on, off it comes and we start anew.  Same with the loops.  Yes, it takes practice, but even then, the threads of the loop can get twisted and this is unattractive.

I was delighted with the sunny pumpkin-yellow color and it was reminiscent of the Pumpkin Costume I made for Daisy last year.  Loved that hat!!


Back to the drawing board!
After the vests were done, I still wasn't ready to start sewing on white, so I began the coats.  Even after I drew the collar three times, and tested it the same, once it was cut on the good fabric and stitched to the coat, both the collar and coat edge were too small to fit around the neck.  Such a disappointment!  And, a waste of fabric.  It was back to the drawing board, literally.  The collar in the illustration is high on the neck.  I still haven't figured out how that is possible, but I did manage to get a good facsimile.  I contend that the illustrator can do so much more than the seamstress.  Unless I had a true example to study, I can't see how this is possible.  Regardless, I'm happy with the final results and it took three tries to get everything to meet properly.

Lastly, I had another challenge finding suitable ties.  They simply don't make satin ribbon in the same color as the coat, and silk would be to fine.  Also, if they did carry that exact color, what would I do with 25 yards of it?!  They don't sell it by the yard.  What I ended up using was bias tape.  Incredibly, I found it in the exact same color.  It was too wide to just fold over and stitch, so I trimmed one side off, folded that edge over with the iron and stitch the strip down the middle. 

Tomorrow we begin to sew on white!


Two Vests and Two Coat-Capes
Love,
Miss E. Mouse