Day at the Beach

Josephine - Day at the Beach

I began collecting the vinyl fashion dolls of Franklin Mint with their beautiful wardrobes and wardrobe trunks many years ago.  One of my favorites has always been Josephine, the Gibson Girl.  To me she was the image of life in the glory days after the Gold Rush, setting, San Francisco.  Maybe its because I'm a Northern California girl, or maybe I've just had my nose in so many books about this era.  There is no doubt that the history of San Francisco is an exciting one, but during the 1890's?  You bet.

Advertisement for 22" Doll

Sad to say that Franklin Mint is no longer producing these collectible vinyl dolls as they used to, and for new collectors, its the secondary market only.  My biggest beef with collections like Josephine's was that they made a limited number, and style, of outfits for her.  They were all ball or evening gowns, save for a nightgown and robe.

Gorgeous, and popular as the vinyl dolls were, they seemed to bank their profits on the 22" porcelain, cloth body Gibson Girls.  One of them was called Day at the Beach.  Long before I began sewing, I'd always dreamt of having this very outfit for my Gibson Girl.  Nautical, casual...so fresh and summery.  And, what would stop me now?  Except the well defined, and occasional dents in my confidence?  Nothing.  So I set my sights on stripes, and began.

15 1/2" Vinyl Portrait Doll

Interestingly enough, the minute I went to purchase a copy of an original advertisement to work from, the very doll, the rare and hard to find 22" doll showed up on Ebay.  So I bought her.  What could be better to have than the original costume to work from?  Sorry to say, the doll is not as beautiful as the ad portrays, but having this large costume to study and work from was enormously helpful.  For once I was not just designing from an illustration, but an actual piece of costuming.

Charles Dana Gibson  (September 14, 1867 – December 23, 1944) was an American graphic artist, best known for his creation of the Gibson Girl, an iconic representation of the beautiful and independent American woman at the turn of the 20th century.  While he worked as a magazine illustrator for 30 years, the development of the Gibson Girl from 1890, and her nationwide fame, made Gibson respected and wealthy.  Even the Gibson, a gin martini, his favorite drink, was named after him.

Charles Dana Gibson's Girls at the Beach

The Gibson Girl was idealized as a statuesque, narrow-waisted feminine figure, portrayed as being at ease and stylish.  She was fragile, yet voluptuous and had an exaggerated S-curve torso shape achieved by wearing a swan-bill corset.  She was a member of upper class society, always perfectly dressed in the latest fashionable attire appropriate for the place and time of day. The Gibson Girl was also one of the new, more athletic shaped women, who could be found cycling through Central Park, often exercised and was emancipated to the extent that she could enter the workplace.

Half Slip With Ruffled Kick Pleat

In addition to the Gibson Girl's refined beauty, in spirit, she was calm, independent, confident, and sought personal fulfillment. She could be depicted attending college and vying for a good mate, but she would never have participated in the suffrage movement.  There are wonderful images and stories of these women in antique magazines such as The Ladies' Home Journal.  One of my favorites!

So with the several ball and party gowns that Franklin Mint created for this 15 1/2" vinyl portrait doll, she definitely needed a Day at the Beach to round out a proper wardrobe.  (And, I do believe a cycling costume and travel suit would be appropriate as well.)

Side View and Large Bow

Finding a navy and white pin stripe cotton in April, is not an easy task.  Nor at any time.  When June comes along, there are lots of nautical and 4th of July prints, but something as simple and refined as a dark pin stripe, seems a life time quest.  So I began with an 1/8" stripe in an Italian men's shirting cotton for the skirt.  A complimentary navy cotton for the nautical bib collar, which is detached and hooks behind the neck, and my pima batiste for the blouse were my fabric choices.  I used baby flexi-braid for the trim so as to keep the trim in scale for this doll.  Double-sided silk ribbon was used for her tie, and straw hat band.

S-Curve - Swan Bill Corset (gasp!)

In creating the bib collar, I actually photocopied the original by laying it flat on the glass plate of the copy machine, and shrunk it down 80% leaving room for seams.  It did take a couple of tries as the first bib collar was too small, but it was not a difficult piece to make.  It did take time though.  Time and patience since the braid had to be sewn on, and a nautical anchor had to be hand embroidered on the front.  The original decorative anchor for the 22" doll's collar was an applique sewn on.  I'm sure the embroidery would be considered more authentic. 

There was also a unique design of the skirt that I had to work with.  There is a rise or scoop at the front, tapering down to the back and this is more clearly defined by the two rows of red braid outlining this "wave".  The skirt has eight pleats on either side of the front panel.  The pleats in this case were overlapped giving the skirt its fullness.  I'd not overlapped pleats prior to this, so it was something I had to reason and figure out.

I also had to make the slip that went beneath it.  I don't enjoy making underwear, as it can never be seen, but in the case of Day at the Beach, it seemed necessary.  It took me two days to make one good slip, as I had to figure out how to make the four-ruffled kick pleat in front.  Each ruffle on the slip was made as a complete ruffle with overcasted edges, then top-stitching so I could cut pieces to fit the triangle of the kick pleat.  By finishing the ruffles prior to attaching them, I could assure the gathers were consistent and didn't have to fuss with long threads and pulling them as I pinned them to the fabric edge or face.  And, again, it was wonderful to have the original as an example to work from.  In fact, this entire outfit was made as close to the way Franklin Mint created theirs, as could be.



The 22" Franklin Mint Doll

The large bow in the back is created from a long shaped piece that is part waistband, part ties.  Its all one piece.  It is narrow at the waist, then widely shaped, then tapered at the ends.  An 1/8" machine sewed hem was made on the edges of this "waistband tie". 

While the original 22" doll wears her hair in a long braid going down her back, I didn't have the heart to undo the perfect "Gibson" bouffant my 15 1/2" Josephine wears.  Judging from the pen and ink drawing of girls at the beach (above), I feel safe that her hairstyle would have been appropriate at the beach.  I made a little straw boater for her to wear, and now all she needs is a picnic basket and a few tickets to enjoy on the boardwalk.  Especially one for the gypsy fortune telling booth!

I am so pleased with the outcome of Day at the Beach.  I was doubtful I could pull it off, but I did.  Its notable since this is the first lady doll outfit I've made.  This might be considered French Fashion in the doll world, or it might be seen as early Edwardian.  For me, its just fun.  Whether spending a day on the boardwalk, going to a carnival, or even attending the circus, its fun, elegant and so very Josephine, Gibson Girl.

What shall I do next?  A cycling outfit for her, or another delicate dress for our Alice Liddell?

Love,
Miss E. Mouse



Gibson Girl Fashions

Elegant Gowns



Daily Threads

Tea For Two

Fragile and Voluptuous

Strolling In the Park

The Man Responsible - Charles Dana Gibson

Josephine - Day at the Beach

The Other Alice - Alice Liddell - That's Where I Live

Alice Liddle - That's Where I Live

"On July 4, 1862, Charles Dodgson took his neighbor Alice Liddell on a picnic and told her a story that later became a book called Alice's Adventures in Wonderland (which he published under the name Lewis Carroll).  Mr. Dogdson taught mathematics at Christ Church at Oxford University in England.  He was a shy man, but he always felt comfortable with children, whom he got to know by photographing them.  Alice was the child friend he liked best of all."  This is an excerpt from the book The Other Alice, The Story of Alice Liddell and Alice in Wonderland.

Alice's First Gown

Several years ago, my dearest friend Betsy Fixler (who loves to send me books!), sent to me a copy of The Other Alice when she discovered that I collected "Alice" books with beautiful illustrations.  I was skeptical of liking this book as it was so very different from what I'd been collecting.  Yet, once I opened the book and began to read, I was captivated by the story, the history, and naturally, the fabulous illustrations. 

This was during a time when I was still making Etrennes, and tiny peg wooden paper dolls.  And, so I made one of Alice Liddell, and if my memory serves me correctly, Betsy is the one that owns this tiny treasure (about 2" tall over all - see photo below).

That's Where I Live

I guess during this time, I began thinking that one day I'd like to have an Alice Liddell doll of my very own.  A real doll I could dress and play with.  It was only recently that I learned Robert Tonner had made a 10" porcelain one very early on.  So maybe my Alice Liddell is the second!  At least she is the only one I know of.

The Book

Last fall, the autumn of 2013, I purchased a Wendy Lawton Marcella doll who was missing her Raggedy Andy, and therefore quite affordable.  This was the face I decided would become my Alice Liddell.  She would need brown eyes and a brunette bobbed wig.  She would also need gorgeous silks, textured cottons, and velvets  with all the trimmings to create a wardrobe for her from this book.  And, indeed I did purchase the first set of these fabrics from Britex last fall, a birthday shopping trip from my husband.  And, I also took the pains of learning how to change the eyes in the Wendy Lawton dolls, and gave my Alice a pair of pretty brown glass eyes.  She was ready to go, but I wasn't.

What I was lacking was confidence and the motivation to begin such an undertaking.  After all, these were "French Fashion" style garments, and I had a mind block from making them.  There's no arguing with myself when I'm in a "no can do" attitude.  So I continued to sew for Daisy, and once the Easter outfit was done, I guess I felt ready to jump in.  I had no excuses, nothing planned, just a summer ahead of me ripe for a long and patient project. 

From Marcella to Alice Liddell

As with reading a book, it is best to start at the beginning, and so I decided to try the garment we'll call That's Where I Live.  It took me several days to draft out all the pattern pieces for this one, yet I knew that they would be used many times for the other garments, so I sewed my mock ups, made the changes, did this again, then began to create Alice Liddell's first outfit. 

It is made from an Italian shirting, textured cotton.  From what I've learned, summer dresses in the 1860's were typically white, and of light cottons, especially for children.  Children during this time were dressed very much like adults, and were often very uncomfortable.  Their clothing was suitable for standing in and posing, and not for much play.  So I have decided to give my little Alice a break, and make sure her dresses are as fun to play in, as well as look elegant in. 

My Marcella and Her Raggedies

Staples of this wardrobe included many layers of undergarments, little jackets and something called a false sleeve.  Perhaps the false sleeve could be worn with other dresses and jackets, like this bolero style one.  Pinafores and hats, parasols and gloves, belts, garters, little drawstring bags...so very much for a nanny to look after!  And, my Alice will have them, too.

Was this a difficult outfit to make?  Not really.  Surprisingly so.  Yet, the collar, those darned collars!, was something that took me two full days to make.  This 16" wood body and porcelain doll is a thinner, longer bodied doll than the ones I've been working with.  The problem with the collar when all was said and done, was that it was too long around the neckline, so redrawing the pattern just one more time did the trick.  I've done ruffles, very complex and complicated sleeves with the Lettie Lane outfits I've made in the past, so no.  This was not too difficult.  And, I enjoyed every minute making it...except for the ruffle around the bolero edges.  The little jacket looked like a porcupine by the time I had all the pins in place. 

Paper Lantern Sleeves

I thought the false sleeves would be a challenge, but I made them as one would a gathered skirt with a waistband on the top and one on the bottom.  I think Dodgson would have called them paper lantern sleeves.  And, that is what I will call them.  And, I've done plenty of attaching double-sided silk ribbon to edges and in rows.  Alice's garments will require lots of embellishments, the gold silk autumn dress being the most fussy.  But, I have time.  We've only just begun!

I have to admit, finally, that I'm having fun sewing, and am grateful I took the pains to teach myself the most difficult things first.  (I did that with painting, too!)  There's so much more to learn, but I now feel like I sort-of, kind-of, know what I'm doing.

The Other Alice is one of the sweetest books I've ever read, and am rereading it now.  I'll be living "Alice and Dodgson" for the remainder of the year, and I can't think of a better place to be.  With each new outfit (and yes, I'll make her shoes as well - she is wearing the pair she came in), I'll share more on the story of Alice and her friend.  However, if you love Victorian times, this historical time in England, and are enchanted with the story Dodgson wrote for his little friend, I would recommend picking up a copy. 

Love,
Miss E. Mouse

The Real Alice



Wendy Lawton sculpts a beautiful face.



That's Where I Live Close Up

Part of Her Elegant Wardrobe - False Sleeve, too!



Beneath It All

One of Dodgson's Photos

The Tiny Peg Wooden I Made

Just the Beginning.  And She Lives Here.

Its a Long Way to Tipperary!

Bernie (Bernadette) in Uniform, by Kathy O'Malley

One of the reasons I love accessorizing and dressing dolls is the history I get to research in doing so.  I recall taking a series of Art History classes in college, and while we learned a great deal about cathedrals, statues, and frescoes, one thing stands out above all else, the rich knowledge I gained concerning the history surrounding these objects.  In lieu of majoring in European History, we got snapshots in detail of the events that changed the course of history over the years.  And, so it is with dressing dolls.  And, so it is with collecting antique dolls! 

I love uniforms.  The sharp, clean lines, the authority they give the wearer, memories of my father from photos of WWII in his naval uniform.  I think in part, this is one of the reasons I adore nautical, or sailor outfits on my dolls as well. 

Her Little WWI Knapsack - by Me

When my friend, Kathy O'Malley, makes a uniform for Bleuette, I must have it!  She is one of the finest seamstresses sewing the antique, French patterns for this doll out there.  And, such was the case for Bleuette's G-L 1915 Tipperary uniform.  Yet, as an accessorist, I needed a bit more to snap this outfit into shape.  A knapsack.  A miniature WWI knapsack for her to carry letters in, and perhaps a snack or two.

Straps and a Pocket For Letters

Bleuette's vast pattern wardrobe followed the rich history of France, and this was also to be the case during WWI.  During the war years, Bleuette would get a Red Cross nurse's uniform, a Ticket Taker uniform for the trolley cars (as this traditional job for men was taken over by women),scouting uniforms, and a Tipperary uniform to honor the allied forces of Ireland and Britain who helped fight against the Germans in France. 

A Gusset Making for Plenty to Hold

Why Tipperary?  Well, my guess is that the very song, a marching tune written by Jack Judge and Harry Williams in 1912, was so melodic and sentimental, that it seemed most appropriate.  And, indeed honored the men who valiantly fought on French soil.  I've been humming this tune for a few days now, and always remember how Snoopy marched through the field to his Sopwith Camel dog house and was shot down over the fields of France on Charlie Brown's, Its the Great Pumpkin cartoon.

And, where is Tipperary?  Tipperary is a county in south Ireland, and indeed it would have been a very long way home from Britain for Irish soldiers pining for their loved ones back home.

The Shoulder Straps

Kathy and I have known each other for years, and she has been very supportive of my foray into costuming.  I think she also enjoys my work in accessories, for when I asked if she'd send along a remnant for me to make a knapsack with, she sent several pieces and a bit of leather. 



Allied Troops in France

 I began looking on the Internet for images of knapsacks from WWI.  Often they were camel colored to blend in with the uniforms of the times, yet you will see so many more U.S. haversacks from this era in green.  I chose a simple design with a front pocket just because I like details.  The leather straps are sewn into the flap and fasten with buckles.  The same is true for the shoulder straps.  I even made machined X stitching on the straps where they secure to the back, as many were made this way to strengthen their hold.  I made it with a gusset as I had with Katy's bluebird school bag.

It is not in the cards for me to sew for this doll.  I can't read French, and the patterns can be quite unusual causing me a headache to try and piece together.  And, I simply adore Kathy's work.  Purchasing her Bleuette couture is always a treat.  And, then I get to accessorize it!  Check her out at www.bluebirdtextiles.com

Love,
Miss E. Mouse




Soldier and a French Girl

Tip Top Tipperary Mary

County Tipperary

Right there!

A Poster For Enlistment

A News Article

WWI Boots, Very  Much Like Daisy's Work Boots

 

Up to mighty London came
An Irishman one day,
Singing songs of Piccadilly,
So all the world was gay
Singing songs of Piccadilly,
Strand, and Leicester Square,
'Til Paddy got excited and
He shouted to them there:

 

It's a long way to Tipperary,
It's a long way to go.
It's a long way to Tipperary
And the sweetest girl I know!
Farewell to Piccadilly,
Goodbye, Leicester Square!
It's a long long way to Tipperary,
But my heart's right there.

 

It's a long way to Tipperary,
And it's a long way to go.
It's a long way to Tipperary
And the sweetest girl I know!
Farewell, Piccadilly,
Goodbye, Leicester Square!
It's a long long way to Tipperary,
But my heart's right there.

Bernie, My 60 8/0 By Suzanne McBrayer

Daisy's Apron Filled With Patty's Peeps

 

Daisy's Apron of Peeps

When it came to thinking about an Easter outfit for Daisy...a special antique postcard outfit for our Postcard Girl, there was an endless possibility of illustrations to choose from.  Now I have to admit that most of the postcards I came upon when doing my search were depictions of bunnies and chicks celebrating the holiday in sweet and charming, and often silly ways.  There were ladies in bonnets, girls in pink, children dancing with bunnies, but the one that really caught my eye was the image of a gentle farm girl carrying little peeps in her apron. 

I had the yellow country cotton, and I had plenty of pima batiste for the apron.  I also have on hand quite a bit of French, Swiss and English laces, so there wasn't anything to purchase but a yard of lilac double-sided silk ribbon. 

German Antique Postcard

I wrote to my friend Patty Kascsak and asked her if she'd be willing to make a few peeps for Daisy's apron.  And, a rooster.  It was my intention to make one more Easter outfit that the rooster was intended for, but as you can see from my last post, I got busy making doll houses.

Patty's Peeps

Patty, bless her heart, of course agreed to make me the rooster and baby chicks.  When the first three yellow peeps arrived with the rooster, I was simply awestruck with her artistry and exact likeness.  She told me the rooster was a Silkie, and that me she raised these roosters.  I asked her if she lived on a farm, and this opened some of the most endearing and touching communication I've experienced with an artist.  Patty is surely a modern day Beatrix Potter!  Not only was I creating an outfit for a gentle farm girl, I was getting to know one better!

Lace-up Work Boots

Patty grew up on a 365 acre ranch in Montana where she raised and trained horses, as well as keeping sheep, goats, chickens and ducks.  This landscape of opportunity and lifestyle would keep her close to nature, and so much so that she would often be called to rescue and raise wildlife.  She sent me a photo of a fawn she had rescued that she helped grow to young adulthood with successful release back into the wild.  She also sent me a photo of Cecilia, the baby lamb (one of the sheep's triplets), that had been rejected by its mother.  Cecelia now has her own set of healthy triplets. 

One of Patty's Real Peeps

When Patty married, her husband and her began a residential construction business in New Iberia, Louisiana.  Patty dearly missed Montana, but brought her love of wildlife, farm animals, and skills with gardening with her to her new home.  Here she raises Serama chicken, the smallest in the world, and tells me they are "quite friendly little things".  She also raises a variety of other chickens, geese, quail and turkeys.  With such a variety of eggs being laid, she never lacks for natural Easter eggs.

Her Natural Easter Eggs

This gentle soul also gives much of her vegetable garden crop, and countless eggs to people in her neighborhood in less fortunate circumstances.  A gourmet cook, who used to run her own catering business, she cans and pickles, and there is never any waste.  Patty puts out frog houses in her garden, and has a bird friend whose wing she mended.  Her natural ability to care for, and tend animals, brings them from far and near to her peaceful haven.  Well, it is little wonder why she can create such lifelike needlefelted animals.  Patty has been helping accessorize my doll costuming with little animals for two years, and I'm sure you'll agree, she's quite the talent.  Thank you, Patty, for being you.  A modern day Beatrix Potter.

Wee Gosling

Well, Daisy certainly needed a little bit more than peeps in her apron, and Patty couldn't help me with the work boots, so I made them myself.  It took five days to draft a good pattern, but I finally came up with one that worked.  I used a distressed goat leather in cognac for the lace up work boots.  After purchasing a 1/16" hole punch, I was able to lace up the boots with jewelry cord.  Earlier Jean had introduced me to alcohol pens, and the burnt sienna pen perfectly colored the white jewelry cord.  Alcohol pens.  Try them.  Most people might be familiar with Prismacolor watercolor pens, and the alcohol pens work much differently.  They color fast, and dry immediately without running.  They're great!

Box of Puff Ball Peeps and Goslings

Daisy's dress is a drop-waist with three tiers of ruffles.  Her pinafore is completely lined and made from pima batiste.  I used a French lace for the collar decoration.  This is not a free standing collar, but lace sewn on below the neckline and around the shoulder to back in a decorative way.  It took me a long time to figure out how to do this.  Finally, her apron has little thread loops for her fingers to hold it up with, filled with Patty's peeps.  I'm delighted with the outcome.  I'm sure next year I'll create the "other" outfit, and this was for Polly.  Best not to think about it and drive myself crazy.  There's only so many hours in a day.

Today the Keyhole Bliss House kit from Jean arrived!  Its marvelous, and I can't wait to begin it.  I do have two things I'd like to do prior to beginning it, and one is to stretch myself into making my first fashion doll outfit.  I  have the Franklin Mint Gibson Girl, Josephine doll, and I've been wanting to make her a Day at the Beach outfit.  Instead of agonizing over whether or not I can do it, I'm just going to.

Happy Spring, and Happy Easter!  Thank you, Patty, for your enchanting little animals and all you do for real ones and humanity.

Love,
Miss E. Mouse


Patty's Bird Friend

A Close-up of the Rooster

Cecilia, the Triplet

Patty and the Rescue Fawn

Mrs. Rooster?  I'd run, too, Mr. Bunny!

I do love the umbrellas!

Daisy, the Peeps, and Mr. Rooster