Thursday, August 4, 2022

Cabana Cissy II, and off we go!

August.  Hot August Nights.  In the moderately modest town I live in, every August brings Hot August Nights.  They close half of "Old Town" down and all the people who have restored classic cars, parade them through town.  I'm partial to the 57' Tbird convertible with the hard top sporting porthole windows, but if you dangled the '52 Porsche 356 convertible in front of me, I'd take it.  In a heartbeat.  

But August is the hot month, and if July was just warming up for the hottest summer on record, it's here.  I get up very early each morning just to take my dog for a hike, or take my little kayak out, however you must be in by 9am or you'll roast.  It's doesn't even cool off at night anymore.  So, we have two options.  Stay indoors with the air conditioning or head to some resort where the lake water is pure, and the breezes cool the evenings.  Since I live by a lake and there is no resort to go to, I've been staying in the air conditioning, and preparing the rest of Cissy's wardrobe for HER trip to the resort.

And now I'm done.  Well, I could add a pair of white clam diggers, and I just may do that because I have had way too much fun sewing these clothes.  Doreen, and other fans of The Marvelous Mrs, Maisel will appreciate these photos I nabbed off the Internet from the show.  I do not think there was one of us who didn't wish she could be in that rowboat looking smashing in that striped wrap sun dress with shorts beneath.  How lovely to be able to have a cold drink on that covered porch, over-
looking the lake.  And while it's been some time since I watched these episodes, the feelings of an ideal summer holiday pop right back when I see the stills.  The rest of Cissy's wardrobe was born of these feelings.

There are four more outfits, and the first one I'm sharing was the second I made.  A friend of mine on Facebook titled this a "mint princess".
I love stripes.  And I love this minty green color for summer dresses.  I fell in love with stripes as a child, loving them in awnings over shop windows, and watching them graze the high heeled ankles of women wearing full skirts.  

I happened to get lucky that the piece of Michael Miller green stripe that I bought was long enough to make a horizontal striped skirt from.  I know skirts were made this way.  I remember them.  I had to add pockets for more fun and cut them vertical so they would be a prominent feature.

The simple, lined blouse is cooling in tropical leaves or fronds.  A pretty portrait hat in white, with white "Cissy" heels completes the look.  Mint Julep anyone?
Just another look.
Third outfit in second set, is a Swiss dot affair inspired by an actual Madame Alexander Cissy outfit called Bermuda Beachwear 1956.  This photograph from Kiley Ruwe Shaw's book with the blue background, says it was a "Boxed Extra" of "bandeau top, shorts, and over-shirt with mandarin collar.  Inspiring.  I did not have black cotton fabric, but I did have black Swiss dot.  I took it from there.

The first thing I made was the pair of shorts.  I already had the pattern from the pink and off-white striped shorts I made from the first set of resort wear.  

The bandeau top you're seeing is the second one I made.  I had a finer weave of black dot on white, and the dots were much smaller.  I'm trying very hard to use what fabrics I have, but in the end, I bought this cotton because it was the perfect complement to the shorts.  Both fabrics by Michael Miller.  
Kiley Ruwe Shaw's photo of original boxed Cissy clothing.
To make the cropped top fit a little more snug, I added darts to the back.  The top is lined and was very easy to make once the pattern was drafted.  Take any shirt bodice, shorten it and draw in a length for ties. 

The black Cissy heels you see are by an Ebay seller named Sandee.  If you're a Cissy fan, I'm sure you've seen her work.  I don't know where she gets the heel bases, but the shoes are not that involved and would be fun to make.  Most likely she dyes the elastic, but maybe not.  If not, she has some miraculous source for the colors she uses.  This pair has a rhinestone heart threaded onto the elastic.  I instantly loved them.  And because they were "fancy", I made a wrap skirt to go with this set.

It's the same wrap skirt style as the yellow polka-dot sun suit from the first set.  It's difficult to see the ties since the skirt is black.



The hat is not mine, but a Richard's Originals.  I just fell in love with it and knew it would look glorious with this outfit.  A dress in black and white stripes would look stunning with this hat.  Someday.
The back.
And this was the first outfit I made in this second set of cabana wear.  The stripe is reminiscent of the stripe in Mrs. Maisel's rowboat outfit.  I wanted very badly to make a halter top, but for some reason, drafting a pattern for one alluded me.  

Let me be honest here.  I tried a Cissy halter top by Tamara Casey and the pattern was so difficult in fit and construction that by the third try, I gave up.  Running out of fabric, I made something easy by taking a dress bodice and adding straps to it that tie behind the neck.  Somehow, I doubt this was Tamara's fault.  I am lousy at making other people's patterns.  I've said it before, I'll say it again.
This is another cotton fabric set by Michael Miller called Portofino.  How lovely for resort wear!  Lots of full skirts back in the '50s had city prints, or tropical scenes on them.  My mother had one and I used to watch her swish around in it while cleaning house.  That's where the inspiration came for for this one.
I felt the outfit needed more, so I made a little matching jacket with a sailor collar on it.  

Still feeling it needed more, I added a bright orange leather belt.  Cissy can have a seafood lunch on the pier in this charming outfit.

The back.
The last outfit for this resort set is a bright dress of large marigolds.  It can be worn to dinner, in town for shopping, or just about anywhere that deserves dressing up a bit for.

This fabric ties in beautifully with all the other colors I chose for Cissy's trousseau.  This was the second time I made a dress in this style.  The bodice is in two pieces.  The top is gathered beneath the bustline, then sewn to the band that finishes the length.  

I added two bows to dress it up, made in the same fabric.  One sits center at the bustline and there's one beneath it at the waist.
This is "sort of" the hat I commissioned Richard to make.  He really didn't understand what I wanted, and by the third try, I just said "brilliant, finish it and I'll pay for it".  I took the grosgrain ribbon and millinery fruit off of it the minute I opened the box.  Then sewed the fruit back on.  It was glued on.  I love the little purse I asked him to make, which is simply a round of the straw, folded in half with handles glued in.  

Hat and purse look marvelous with this dress.  The hat I used in the first set of this trousseau will still be a part of it.  It's a completely different hat in style and materials.
Back view.

Sandee's double-banded green heels are reproductions of Madame Alexander originals for Cissy.

I've really enjoyed sewing this cabana-style trousseau.  Some pieces took a couple of tries, but that's how I learn.  All of these outfits were basics as summer really calls for play clothing and easy styles.  I know that fall will bring me back to sewing for Cissy again as she takes to the woods for a hike in autumn leaves.  

For the rest of the month, the only plan I have is staying indoors.  Esme might want a late summer flower costume.  It might be time to sew my 1470 the travel outfit that will be her display costume.  Do I need to think about Halloween yet?  American Girl just came out with their new Halloween costume offerings.  Whatever I choose to do, it will be something involved.  

This is the week that the UFDC is holding their convention in St. Louis, Missouri.  I have friends attending who are having a great time shopping the gorgeous doll booths on the sales floor, enjoying seminars, visiting display and showrooms, and taking wonderfully fun workshops.  I can feel the excitement across the miles.  But I'm enjoying my summer here, at home, just the same.

August, for me, is that last month of summer.  Summer may last well into September, but I feel the changes even though the sun still bakes the earth.  Each day takes its turn becoming one more day to make the most of the season.  I hope you'll do just that!  

Below are a few more stills from The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel showing the fabulous styles from the 1950s.  And a few of my favorites from Roger Wilkerson's Suburban Legend, Pinterest.  

Love, Melissa
 
Fashions from The Marvelous Mrs.Maisel.

The cottage they rented.

The rowboat ride.

Inspiration for the shorts set with scarf.

Stylish mother and daughter.






 

Sunday, July 17, 2022

Cabana Cissy

Mid July and we've been baking under the summer sun.  Today is a toasty 100 degrees at 5pm.  Absolutely perfect weather for staying indoors and writing a post in my online journal.  

I got up this morning to hike my doggy down at the lake and unfortunately got there a bit too late, at 7am.  I was dripping from sweat after the first half hour, and I wasn't even working hard.  We headed home to the air conditioning with a bit of patio first just so Brighton could dry off from his dips in the lake.  That's what my summer's been all about.  Taking my "kayak for one" out on mornings that my husband takes the dog for a hike, or taking Brighton down to the lake for a few cool dunks and good hike.  I have no desire to travel afar.  Well, I do.  Sort of.  But when I think about what it will entail, I'd prefer to stay home, read, sew for my dolls and enjoy the lake.  Cissy on the other hand is headed to the resort.

Ever since watching the second season of The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel, I've wanted to make Cissy a summer holiday resort trousseau.  Going to the Catskills was so much fun with Midge's family, but oh! those outfits!  Watching what she wore for a drive in a convertible, watching what she wore for a little daily group exercise, the swimsuits, the dinner dresses, a fun outfit to wear while watching fireworks on the 4th of July.  Even what to wear to the hairdressers'.  All gorgeous.  A fantasy 50s wardrobe.

I suppose after adding Toni to the fray as Cissy's little sister, I could have continued this story and made matching sister outfits again.  I agonized over this for about fifteen minutes, then put Toni away for another day.  I like sewing for Cissy.  It makes me happy.  I guess I just really love the fashions of the 1950s.  Big skirts, feminine lines, lovely colors and it doesn't hurt that she's a big doll which makes sewing much easier.

In between all the other things I do, I am often saving off photos with

ideas for future doll dresses.  When I saw the two striped dresses that were a Madame Alexander staple of Cissy's wardrobe, I decided I would make one or both of them some day.  What prompted pulling Cissy off the shelf to sew this dress was the acquisition of American Girl Courtney and some of her accessories, like her big bunk bed.  I'd have to redo the shelf that would hold Courtney, so many dolls got put away, and Cissy got a new summer resort wardrobe.  I like her enough to keep her displayed at all times.  

The intention was simply to make this dress, a straw hat to go with it, and in this, give her something light and delightful to wear for all her summer doings.  Something pretty on the shelf.

The dress itself, is a fairly simple pattern with front and back darts in the bodice, a slightly longer waist, then a full skirt.  The bow could be made two ways with squared or pointed edges.  The bow is held in place with a strap that connects to the bodice with a single rhinestone decorative button.

Three snaps up the back and hook and thread loop at the waist.  It is quite possible that I could have made a tighter fit with the bodice, but I am always cautious to leave room for the waist of the doll stand.


Vintage Madame Alexander Cissy dresses.
I was having fun.  I kept going.  Cissy really needed a swimsuit.  Or cabana play suit.  In Cissy!,  the book by Kiley Ruwe Shaw, which is a must have for any Cissy fan or collector, there was a photo of a swimsuit pattern on page 63, which was also showing two aqua colored polka dot Sun Suits by Madame Alexander.  The poufy bottoms of these Sun Suits caught my whimsical eye, and Cissy needed one of her own.  I decided to make her suit up in yellow with white polka dots.

The sun, or swim-suit I made was not intended as replica of Madame Alexander's, but more, one inspired by the pattern.  (Just attached a photo of this pattern from the book.  See below.)


The pattern for this sun suit is a combination of two.  The basics of the bodice as used on a dress I did for Cissy that was salmon colored with white and black daisies on it. The bottoms are a pattern for a pair of under pants that I enlarged in areas for the pouf, finished with elastic at the leg openings.
Sometimes I get lucky.  The back is a perfect fit and looks so nice.
Cissy needed a cover up.  MOST of the sun suits sold by Madame Alexander came with a skirt cover up.  The skirt was open in front and simply tied in a bow at the waist.  I really wanted something different.  

I did a bit of Pinterest research on 50s beach wear and cover-ups and came up with this simple design for Cissy.

It's basically a long blouse pattern without the extras that make it a blouse.  I got lucky on this one, too.  I was on a roll and simply cut out the fabric pieces and stitched it up with the tie ends left over from the sun suit's straps.  

Nice silhouette on the back.
Fully lined, of course.  Something modest and comfortable to wear at the beachcomber bar.
And, of course, I had to make the skirt.  I'm madly in love with this yellow polka dot fabric.  It's just so summery and sunshiny.  And pretty, made up in this cabana wear.

You'll notice Cissy wears both white and yellow sandals in these photos.  I find this set of three pieces very flexible and simply fun.

Nice fit, and attactive from behind.
Peek-a-boo!  The skirt's hemmed edges are a simple double-quarter-inch-turn, and stitch.
The hat.  Well, all of Cissy's cabana outfits came with a hat with the fruit on it.  A Carmen Miranda inspiration for certain.  I played this up with a purchased vintage straw hat of undetermined origin, that I stripped of decoration, and added an aqua grosgrain ribbon and the millinery fruit.

I asked Richard, of Richard's Originals, to make me a simple straw hat I could decorate, but he insisted he decorate it himself.  I'm fine with that.  I love his hats.  I like the straw he uses as its very authentic to what Madame Alexander used.  I don't know what it is, or I'd buy it myself.  And he sews the hats, so double bonus for him on that account.  If can come up with one for me, I'll share in it the next set of resort outfits for Cissy.  I would never ask him what straw he uses because this is his business.  I can respect that.

Strawberry Sunshine.  That's what this little shorts and tops set reminds me of.

This pink stripe was the stripe I would use if I made up the other Madame Alexander striped dress.  I love sailor collars and nautical stripes and took a chance on making this play set up in strawberry pink.

This is what Cissy wears on that convertible ride.  Cissy's pretty, long legs are played up by the wide leg shorts that fit Cissy's waist with a series of darts.

The top, usually made up in white, gets a big "hello!" in strawberry pink cotton sateen.  I made this top twice.  I tried something different by not lining the top and using the seam, pressed and stitched down as a self-facing, but it was horrid.  Messy.  There's a reason I line everything. 

So, I recut and quickly sewed up another version, this time lined.  See below for the inside of the top, and the waist facing for the shorts.  


I like this look better for the shorts that a waist band.

No convertible ride is complete without a scarf to wear around the head.  I had this floral georgette that I think was originally intended for that vintage reproduction Queen Elizabeth's Princess doll (the gift from France).  It would make a perfect scarf.  

Since I've never been successful with the rolled hem foot on my sewing machine, I zig-zagged the edge, and it pretty much did the same thing.  I discovered this "edging" by accident the other day.

Cissy' red cork wedges are Madame Alexander redos.  MA used a ribbon of some sort, and I took the wedged apart and replaced the strap with a bright red leather band.

The back.
Ingenue!
The head scarf.
My lining techniques.

This set has been so much fun to make, that I'm going to keep going.  I want to make a green dinner dress, and we need something red in this trousseau.  I don't know, but I have something in mind for a day of tourist shopping and lunch, too.

I may not be going anywhere this summer, but Cissy's going places.  I have this fictitious New England resort in mind, that Cissy holidays at for a few weeks each summer.  She meets up with friends and even breaks a few hearts before heading home relaxed and suntanned.  

I'm reading Elin Hildebrand's Summer of '69.  It's the perfect summer read for the mornings when the patio is still cool and the air is filled with bits of bird song and the frittering, chirping of squirrels in the trees.  Summer should be a time of no hurries, no worries, and lots of ice cream.  Today, July 17th, is National Ice Cream Day.  I'm sure Cissy will be ordering a strawberry sundae while wearing her shorts set.  

Until next time!, Melissa


The sun suit pattern.


Waiting for friends.

By the water in the sun.

Out for a little exercise.

Remember to do nothing sometimes!