Cissy's Double Happiness

April is coming to its close and it occurred to me that I have only shared, in this journaling, one creation this month.  Its not for lack of having made things, but some were not wholly worthy of sharing until a later time.  I've been working on parasols.  And I have been for a couple of months now in order to create one of superb fantasy for a project long overdue.  It will come.  I just keep getting sidetracked for projects that call to me.  

Currently I'm exploring a long-held desire to read the tales of the Arabian Nights, and seeking out the most beautiful imagery, illustrations ever created for these stories.  When spring comes, fantasy and the exotic take hold of me, and I couldn't be in a better place, or frame of mind, to do this now.  Yet my love of traditional Chinese styling of attire has kept me leapfrogging from one thing to the next.

When I was collecting an array of gorgeous fabrics for this kind of costuming, I came upon this adorable print of happy Chinese characters by Robert Kaufmann.  I knew instantly that my very next costume for Cissy would be out of this print.  It would be a skirt.  One like my mother wore that simply enchanted me.  These full skirts often had border prints, some in tropical island themes, and the ones I loved best had large prints that told a story.  To me they told a story.  

I assume people thought me a strange child because I stared at people a lot and didn't say much.  What was going on in my mind was not a criticism, but a deep and intense observation of what attracted me.  And a swirling skirt of beautiful prints and colors would capture my imagination entirely.  Nothing has changed.  I'm still the same way, only now I'm a bit more discreet!

I also knew that this colorful and whimsical skirt would need a

black silk, Mandarin style top to go with it.  So, I set out once again to make a new pattern.  This style was not my first choice, but it was one that worked and that I could achieve.  Later I would be studying a Chinese dress made by American Girl and discovered just how to achieve the look I was after.  That will be for another day, another outfit.  And definitely a blouse.  And possibly a dress.  A lot of what I do, I've learned from studying the construction of other designers' work, just as they have done.  Nothing is new. 

Black is one of the most difficult colors of fabric I've ever worked with.  You cannot see the black thread on the black fabric and only intense light upon the piece allows you to see what you're doing.  So in this photo on the left, I took a bright light image to share with you the frog closures I made for it.  As you'll observe, they disappear in the other photos.

This little top is perfect for the warmer temperatures of spring 

and summer and is fully lined like all my doll clothing.  It boasts the Mandarin collar and five sets of mini black grosgrain ribbon frogs.  A simple knot with its tails creating the end pieces is the closure.  I studied the work Ruby Red Galleria does for its frog closures for this effect.  

I call this outfit Cissy's Double Happiness only because the characters in the skirt's print look happy and smiling and full of fun and mischief.  The Double Happiness symbol in Chinese is comprised of two copies of the Chinse character, which means joy and happiness.  It is commonly used as a Chinese wedding symbol to represent double joy and happiness for the newlyweds as they begin their married life together.  In more recent years, it has also come to symbolized Good Luck.  

For this purpose, I choose Good Luck.

Back view of Cissy's sleeveless blouse, which has a solid back, the top opening in front, then closing with the frogs.

I recently acquired a full half slip for her to help her skirts and dresses stand out a bit more.  

The width of this skirt is 42", the rest of the standard 44" of fabric is in the back seam.  It is also fully lined with a delicate batiste.  The reason I got all that fabric into the waistband is that the fabric itself is a delicate lawn.  I LOVE this fabric.  So much so, that I purchased it a second time, the last yard the seller had.

As I was making this costume, it came to me that a black Chinese, straw cone hat would look cute with it.  I was in luck that I just happened to have 20 yards of hat straw and a bit more on hand.  

Even though many of us think of these as Chinese in nature, they are worn throughout Asia, primarily as a form of protection against sun and rain.  When made of straw or other woven materials, they can be dipped in water and worn as an impromptu evaporative cooling device.

In China, the hat was typically associated with farmers and fishermen.  There are varying styles throughout Asia and throughout time, and even conical hats woven for the winter climates. For Cissy, it's just plain fashionable and kitschy.

I also included a black market bag of the same straw. I thought I knew what I was doing in making a "taco" purse, but it wasn't as I expected, so I tucked in the sides to make "expansion" gussets and closed it with a same straw loop and knot.  Two handles are attached for Cissy to carry it.  I love making accessories and often it is all a learning experience I can use in the next attempt.

I collected Chinese themed beads as well.  I have a very heavy bag of them to sort through each time I make jewelry for these costumes now.  For Cissy's Double Happiness, I chose the green enameled beads with the Good Luck symbol on them.  She also has a stretchy bracelet with the beads and one of black crystals.  Not too much.  Just enough jewelry to give the outfit a fun and feminine appeal.

I have to tell you that I recently acquired a mint condition original Pleasant Company Girl of Today.  The JLY4 Asian doll.  I'd been collecting all the Chinese costumes both Pleasant Company and American Girl had made over the years, and all I needed was the perfect doll.  I found her.  Finally!  I bathed her limbs and face and washed her hair and she's gorgeous once again.  A doll that age will get a little sticky and no matter how she was preserved and cared for, old doll hair does get dirty.  As I've never sewn for American Girl before, I purchased a Chinese outfit pattern, a basic one, to use to sew something for her.  With all the fabric I have, this should be a fun, and of course, new experience.

It is my goal each morning to live each day to its fullest and fill it with as much pleasure as possible.  I want no regrets in my last moments on earth.  Whether its concocting beautiful costuming for dolls, making a special doll from another one, reading the stories of The Arabian Nights, or greedily enjoying the television series Longmire (love it!!!), the day must end with gratitude in that I've experienced something wonderful not to be missed.

爱 Melissa

The Print

Double Happiness in a Lantern

Extraordinary Cone Hats!!!  Must try making one.

 

Claudie Wells's Puppet Theater

Since my last posting, I've been dabbling with several ideas and tossing them around, gathering information and trying new things.  It is often very difficult once I complete one project to begin another, especially if it's in a completely different direction. I have to think differently, pull from the past all I've done and learned, then try to incorporate new processes or materials to stretch myself a bit.  This doesn't always happen, but regardless, I do learn something new.  

Sometimes I'll make something, promise myself to blog on it, but when I know there is more to be explored with it, or if there's a special project I have in mind for using the new skill, I will wait.  And I've been busy doing just that.  However, sometimes I'll change directions again completely when an inspiration strikes.

With Easter having come and gone, and Spring clearly present in all the new bloom, I've also been redressing some of my dolls.  Poor little Claudie Wells needed a change of costume, so I dressed her in her yellow pajamas and reread the tri-fold card that came with the pajamas.  Inspiration hit.

I'd been up in the air about bonding with the latest historical doll by American Girl, that debuted in August of 2022.  Having loved Addy and Cecile, I was hopeful for enjoying another African American historical doll.  I bought everything there was for her except the bed and her father's bakery.  I have one shelf, and a small one at that, where she can live, and absolutely no room to store large furniture any longer.  In fact, I have to rotate dolls with this one shelf which means storing the others.  

I was looking forward to reading her book and learning about Claudie but couldn't get through it.  Perhaps it's just me, but over time, the stories and the illustrations have steadily been lacking the luster that Pleasant Company brought to these dolls. I wasn't even sure I was going to keep the doll and after having spent so much money on the collection, was a bit miffed.  However, I've come to realize that I can change my mind.  Sometimes it's just a matter of where my head is at the time.  Then I find myself, later, enjoying the doll and her story for a reason maybe others haven't even thought of.  

Claudie Wells's story is that of a child growing up in 1922 during the Harlem Renaissance.  This was a time when artists and poets, musicians and actors of color, gravitated to Harlem from the South and other areas to form a movement, a community of talent and change.  It was an exciting and embolding time for people of color and Claudie is trying to find her own talent and purpose. American Girl was so excited about Claudie that they even

published, and sell, a hard back version of her story through Amazon.  I just purchased it and will try the story again.  Perhaps now the time is right.  One of the things that impresses me most are the back pages in these books that detail the history of the character, and this is where I discovered something called The Brownies' Book.  As a collector of antiquarian children's books, this greatly appealed to me.  There is very little information on the publication, and of what there is, it is all repetition.  

A man named W.E.B. Du Bois found a need to create a magazine just for children of color, to help them understand their past and enjoy who they are and what they could become, validating their 

interests.  There as a mix of stories, advice, poems, and messages of self-respect and pride in one's appearance.  It also featured current and past celebrities of color, and African folk tales.  It ran for only 24 issues from 1920 - 1922, until it was no longer financially viable.  Finding a copy of one of these magazines is next to impossible.  But I'll bet the New York Public Library has them.

It was during my research on The Brownies' Book that I found this adorable cover for Easter 1920.  This pushed my latest project to completion so that I could post about it in April.

Back to dressing Claudie in her yellow pajamas, I had reread the tri-fold pamphlet that came with it and was dismayed that the entire pamphlet was about Claudie's puppet theater, and there was no puppet theater to be purchased!  What?!  Why didn't they make her one?  Perhaps they will in time, but until that time, Claudie needed her toy. I scanned the pamphlet for you to read and included it in the images below.

Each night Claudie would perform with her puppets for her little brother, Jody, to make him smile.  Miss Amelia, who runs the boarding house where they live, made the puppets for Claudie, and her father built her a theater from a cardboard box.  This was right up my alley.

So, I fashioned a theater out of cardboard with a red velvet curtain.  "Claudie props the stage on her bed and hides behind it.  Soon Jody is giggling to the antics of the story Claudie makes up."  Now given that description, a special design for the theater would have to be constructed.  How does one prop a theater up on a bed and use hand puppets?  That was the challenge.  It could not have a bottom because hand puppets come up, unlike marionettes that dangle down to the stage.  So, I fashioned a backless and bottomless theater for her to hide behind the curtain and use the hand puppets from beneath.  "Are you listening American Girl?  I just designed it for you!"

Each puppet has its own name and personality.  There's Domino the cat, a pig named Miss Pink, and a duck named Puddles.  

After studying the illustration, I realized this was out of my skill set and did my best with wool felt.  For those who've been following my work all along, you know that I love puppets, puppet theaters, and have made both marionettes and hand puppets.  The challenge was in making them look as close to the illustration as possible.

I never take myself too seriously and have to laugh because when I saw Domino, I thought "black cat".  But then saw that the interior of his ears was black,

a darker color than his fur.  So, I used the darkest charcoal wool felt I had.  

After making The Gingham Dog and the Calico Cat, I understood a bit about sculpting tiny pieces onto flat surfaces, so I was able to give Miss Pink a snout, and Puddles, a beak.  Oh, silly me!  I forgot to add whiskers to Domino!  I am not redoing this post just for that, but I do have fishing line that I use for such a thing and will take care of that when I'm done writing!  (big sigh)

When the theater and puppets were done, I made little fold over copies of two of The Brownies' Book magazines.  American Girl really needs to make one of these as well.

That's two things I hope they do for Claudie.  

After I bought her and was trying to set up a display, I purchased Rebecca's settee and costume trunk for Claudie.  Claudie's selection of outfits included four Flapper style costumes to dance and perform in.  A trunk was needed to store them in. Rebecca's furniture was perfect for a boarding house in 1922 since her story only took place a few years earlier.  I suppose at some point I'll purchase the bed because it's so pretty, but it will take up the entire shelf space.  Dizzy Dot, the dog belonging to Miss Amelia can sit on it along with the puppet theater.  

I'm a doll accessorist.  That came first before designing and sewing, so accessories are everything to me.  They bring the doll to life.  Put a toy in a doll's arms and she has a story to be told.  Because people sell parts to collections on Ebay, I purchased her father's bakery's money box, some money for it, and some pastries and fruit to nosh on while she reads The Brownies' Book.  

So, maybe I'm bonding with her after all.  

I should mention a bit more about The Brownies' Book since I found the information interesting.  The book derived its name from two popular items during that time.  The Brownie camera and Palmer Fox's wildly popular Brownies, fairy-folk characters.  Cool, huh?!

I'm tickled that I found an image of the Easter issue this month while I made the theater.  It just seems like a little bit of magic.

I might also add that in designing the theater as well as making prints of The Brownies' Book, it was pure guesswork concerning scale.  Scale has always been extremely important to me.  Since magazines tended to be very large back then, I made them 3.7".  The theater was scaled based on how big the hand puppets were.  And yes, Claudie can put them on her hands.

I hope you'll enjoy the assorted images below from American Girl and my resources on The Brownies' Book.  Trust me, if I had a copy of one, I'd be miniaturizing the entire thing.  I did that before with The Ladies' Home Journals featuring Daisy.  Never kept copies for myself, but there you go.  Back then spending so much time on something I'd actually keep, and not sell, seemed a waste. 

If you wish to read the pamphlet, just click on it.

Now to get some whiskers on Domino!

C'est la vie!  Melissa 

 

Cissy's Night Out at the Golden Dragon Cafe

One of the things I most enjoyed as a child was going out for Chinese food during a holiday.  It was a treat that we all enjoyed.  It didn't happen more than once or twice a year because we just didn't have the money, but when we did, we ordered several dishes and took our time sharing and savoring the wonderful food.  I especially loved the dinnerware and the tiny teapot and little cups with no handles.  The fortune cookie at the end of the meal delighted me no end, and I believed what ever the little slip of paper said.  It was magic.

When we got up to leave, my father would stay behind and visit with the owner.  Sometimes this lasted a very long time.  I never knew what they were talking about, but as an adult, today, I would guess the war, and San Francisco...things like that.

We'd often come in the back door since there was better 

parking and to the right as you'd walk into the Tao Tao Cafe in Sunnyvale, there was a beaded curtain and behind it, "the den of sin".  That was where people went to drink cocktails like the one on the little neon sign above the door outside.  We'd sit in the waiting area chairs with our teacups and my sister would pretend to read the tea leaves at the bottom of our cups.  Of course, I believed all this, too, since this was such an exotic place.  It was magic.  It was dark.  There were little lights strung and Chinese lanterns and miniature lanterns and paintings of Chinese people in traditional dress.  Life was different back then.  A place like a Chinese restaurant was a journey to another land and you could live this, just for the moment.

The first known Chinese restaurant in America, Canton Restaurant, opened in San Francisco in 1849.  It originally arrived with the flood of Chinese immigrants to California in the mid-nineteenth century - mostly from Canton province, by the Gold Rush and fleeing 

economic problems and famine in China.  By 1880, there were more than 100,000 Chinese people living in the U.S.  Restaurants had begun to crop up to feed the growing population of workers, missing the flavors of home.  The dishes had to be modified to use available ingredients as many were only found in China.  The dishes were also tweaked to accommodate American palates.

By the 1930's, Chinese restaurants went upscale with the merchant visa.  By the 1940's, after the Chinese Exclusion Act was repealed, the cuisine had gone mainstream and Chinese restaurants were ubiquitous.

Increased prosperity after WWII saw more Americans able to dine out and more often, and authenticity came into vogue.  Classic Americanized dishes like chop suey were abandoned in favor of more authentic and regional dishes.  Chinese dishes like General Tso's Chicken, invented by a Hunanese chef in the 1950's, were brought to the U.S. soon after.

Interestingly enough, there was no such thing as a fortune cookie in China.  As early as the 1870's, some Japanese sweet shops started making little crackers that were folded into shapes which allowed a message to be tucked inside the bend.  These original crackers would have been darker in color and made with miso and sesame, giving them a less sweet taste than the cookies we enjoy today.

It is believed that the fortune cookies of today arrived with the Japanese immigrants in California and Hawaii in the late 1800's and early 1900's.  

By the 1950's, the desire for easy meals to feed your family produced the canned Chinese food by Chun King.  If a housewife wished to put an exotic meal on the table, all she had to do was open a can.  We ate it.  And we thought it was a treat, too!  I have to laugh because it really is just awful.  Perhaps the American palate has developed over time, but back then, a Chun King meal on the table was delicious.  About the only canned Chinese food I'll buy is La Choy's Chowmein noodles for my Chinese chicken salads.

Sadly we don't go out for Chinese food anymore now that I can make several dishes and my husband thinks they're better than anything you get in a restaurant.  Phooey!  I thoroughly enjoy going out for Chinese food and don't mind one little bit if its not the best.  Except for the Hot and Sour Soup.  That has to be good or I'm not coming back!

And so when I was designing Cissy's new 1950's Mandarin style 

dress, I couldn't help but think that this was something she'd wear for a night out on the town.  

While the segue into making her a kimono for Cherry Blossom season was fun, I had all this lovely fabric arriving from China.  This beautiful yellow-gold in a dragon embroidery was the first I wished to play with.  

I'd been saving off lots of pattern images from the 50's specifically in the Mandarin style and chose a typical, full skirted dress with the bodice designed in the Mandarin style to make up the fabric in.  I put some effort into this as the pattern I made will continue to be modified for other Chinese style dresses for her.

I'm assuming that there was a resurgence of this style back in the 50's, as I found several designs I'd like to reproduce for Cissy.  The 1920's and 30's also enjoyed the style, but in a design appropriate for the decade.  Everything old is new again.

The pattern for Cissy's Golden Dragon Cafe dress is the second image seen in this posting.  I included standard black pumps and white gloves to complete the look.

Cissy wears a pair of real jade earrings with a Chinese symbol, in gold, in the center.  Her hair sticks were fun to make.

I checked.  Both Japanese and Chinese women wear hair sticks, but not for the purpose of pure decoration.  They are used to hold the hair in place with up-dos.

Cissy's are gold sticks with little gold butterflies, blue flowers and a cloisonné bead.  Once again, they are made from cut down bamboo skewers, painted with metallic gold acrylic, then fashioned for jewelry to be dangled.

I have a pin vise that makes tiny holes in wood like a drill, but 

operated by hand. A throw back to my miniature days.  This is pure fiddly work but they come out so nice and are enjoyable to design.

I have a literal ton of Chinese style beads and jewelry findings now for the many costumes I'll make Cissy.  They are beautiful little works of art in their own right.

A view from behind.

Believe it or not, the first thing I made was her purse.  The lovely kiss lock frames are superb to work with.  They have tiny holes in the frame and you stitch the cloth to the frame through the holes.  

She also needed a Chinese take-out box and after much searching, I found the perfect one which I added a silver wire handle to for authenticity.  I've provided the clip art for you in the case you wish to make one or more for your own dolls.

The little box you see the take-out carton and purse on belonged to my mother.  She called it her Chinese magic box and bought it in San Francisco's Chinatown when she first came here from New Orleans.  It opens on hinges with several compartments.  It must be 70-80 years old.

The little lantern that folds up was the kind that the Tao Tao Cafe had on its shelves and on the check-out counter.  It is extremely difficult to find these today, but I'm always on the hunt for small items like this as doll accessories.

Just in case you were looking for an excuse to go to a Chinese restaurant, July 20th is National Fortune Cookie Day.  Yes, its a way off, but mark it on your calendars and go enjoy some Mongolian Chicken and Orange Peel Beef.  My favorites!  I'll leave you with a popular fortune cookie fortune.

"We must always have old memories and young hopes", Melissa

San Francisco 1880

San Francisco Chinatown 1950

Chun King!

Chinese take-out template

My new wall clock.

Gourmet Magazine, March 1944

From the 50's

Vintage Los Angeles Menu