Here we are on the last day in August. It's been an amazing month for me. Like every month, it just flew by, and yet it was so full of new things to learn with maybe just a little bit of nostalgia tossed in. As I was writing my "month in review" page in my journal, I was struck by just how much I can still pack into a month of thirty-one days. Convention seems a lifetime ago, but that was how August began.
So, what I've been doing since sometime in July, is research on how to design and make traditional Indian clothing. And spending a small fortune, seriously, on fabrics and appliques and trims. All of it comes direct from India, but I was lucky to find two or three Etsy stores in the U.S. that carried some of what I needed after about three weeks. Just enough time to realize that the first hauls from India were too large in scale for dolls. It happens. Why India all of a sudden? What about my love of Chinese dolls and costuming?

As long as I can remember, I've had a fascination with India. Perhaps it started when the Beatles went to India and began producing new sounds in their music. Did you know that Donovan accompanied the Fab Four to India? I'm sure it was even before then, but that is about the same time I played the guru's daughter, Indira, in the play The Groovy Guru, that Mr. Smith produced for our middle school class. I was in the seventh grade. I was chosen, not for my thespian talent, or lack of it, but because I had long brown hair. I remember that my classmate, Karen Racanelli's mother, had traveled to India and knew how to wrap a sari. My mother bought a few yards of a light blue silky fabric and Mrs. Racanelli dressed me in the girls' restroom. I carried my sister's brass incense burner, and promptly lost it when I set it down after my performance. It was a sore topic for the rest of the year.
Around 1970, Mountain View opened a large mall, one of the first of its kind, and Cost Plus Imports was one of the anchor
stores. They had a huge Indian section where you could buy anything Indian, and we used to make skirts and dresses from these thin, printed muslin Indian bedcovers. The shopping mall was called The Mayfield Mall. I even held a baby lion or tiger there for a photo shoot once.
Today, my love of India has much to do with what PBS has brought us in the way of movies and television series, as well as the food. I've enjoyed series like Indian Summers, The Indian Doctor (darling show), and movies like The Best Marigold Hotel and Eat, Pray, Love. Netflix had a series called Delhi Crime that told the story of the girl that had gotten raped on the bus - her boyfriend beaten up. That and Indian Summers, though in different time periods, showcased the poverty and corruption of the poorer areas of India. Then of course, there was Slumdog Millionaire. And let's not forget Disney's fabulous The Jungle Book with Jason Scott Lee. Still one of my favorite movies of all time.

Then there's the food. While I love a good thali, Indian buffets are the best. Masalas, Kormas, Vindaloos, all served with delicious naan bread. Pakoras and samosas! Vibrant sauces to go with them. The dishes are so rich, that a bite or two fills you up quickly. This is one of the concepts behind thalis. Thalis means plate. But its a high rimmed plate that is filled with small bowls called katoris, and each has a serving of a different dish.
Indian music? Can't get into it, so Bollywood should be watched with the sound off.
Then there's the dressed dolls. Gene Marshall's leading man, Trent Osborn, wore a fabulous costume in After the Rains. Robert Tonner made a dark skinned Ellowyne Wilde called Marigold and Cinnamon, and I dressed one of his Deja Vu dolls in the outfit. Some fabulous artist took one of the Deja Vu dolls and turned her into an Indian woman with beautifully painted mehndi. She also jeweled her with a nose ring, earrings and a bindi, the forehead
jewel. I have the complete collection of American Girl's Girls of Many Lands, and Neela was from India.
This summer I acquired American Girl, Kavi, their girl of the year. I didn't care for what she was wearing, but she could wear the one Bollywood costume they made her and the Diwali costume that came out earlier. Then I found Rhea Singh on Etsy and I was a goner. Rhea's been making traditional Indian costuming for American Girl dolls for ten years. The costumes run between $125-135 and $300, usually. All the fabrics and trims and appliques are from India. Her work is phenomenal. Exemplary! And she inspired me to give it a go. I don't like sewing for that big, chunky doll, but I love sewing for Cissy, so Cissy goes to India for a while while I learn everything I can about traditional Indian costuming and daywear.
One of the nice things about Rhea is that her listings educate you to the names of the types of clothing. She's a little shy in
answering questions, but most of what I've learned from her listings, I can look further into on the Internet. We don't stop there though. There's jewelry and accessories that are used for celebrations, and so on. It's overwhelming, but it's a wonderful journey.
Let's talk a little bit about the clothing. Blouse - Choli. Skirt - Lehenga. Scarf - Dupatta. Dress or long coat - Kurta. Pants - Salwar. And the cute little beaded drawstring bags? Potlis! That's about all I know so far when it comes to clothing.
After I finally found a local, meaning U.S., seller of Indian fabrics and trims, I bought this beautiful aqua blue silk brocade, along with some other gorgeous silk brocades. I have always stayed as far away from brocade as possible, because sewing through the fraying threads, especially metallic, that create the design, is brutal to work with. Here's the thing. Silk brocade is much nicer to work with than synthetic brocades which are often used in Chinese costuming. I had to just forge ahead and dismiss my misgivings about brocade.
The lehenga was designed based on how Rhea creates hers. This is a full length, gored skirt, and with Cissy's tiny waist, it was a challenge to draft the pattern. Typically, gored skirts have eight panels, but with Cissy, to make this look right, I went down to five with the back pieces a little wide to make a nice seam in the back.
The skirt is fully lined and, in this way, it eliminated a waistband and sits nicely on her hips.
The choli was shortened to a midriff but has a full back this time. I've seen some lovely cholis that have low scooped backs, and some are even embellished with ties and tassels. That's coming later. The choli is lined as well for a nice finish.
I had set aside a hem trim that had jewels in the same colors when a package from India arrived and settled the matter of trim immediately. This exceptional sequin trim is so lovely and delicate and one yard, which is all I purchased, was just enough for the hem,
along with a piece left over to decorate the front of the choli.
One of the features of these beautiful skirts, are these tasseled belts. Some are very elaborate, and Rhea had sent me this set of tassels that worked beautifully with the chosen fabric, and I had to use them for this purpose. What she does is run a cord through the waists and they tie the skirt on - the tassels fall from the ends of the cords. As this lehenga did not have a waistband, I made a chain belt for the decorative effect.
As I was making this costume, I was very aware of the need for jewelry and was on the hunt for findings to make my own. Impossible. People purchase ready-made jewelry and take it down to doll size and create their own doll jewelry. You cannot ask someone who sells doll jewelry how they create it. Its considered rude. Not to me. I'll share away to take the research and frustration away from anyone who wants to make it themselves. Still and all, you must find the right pieces and make sure they're small

enough. Cissy's maang tika and earrings were purchased. Ah! A new word. Maang tika is hair jewelry and is created in simple form or elaborately for celebrations and weddings. The maang tika consists of a chain or jeweled chain with a medallion on one end, a hook on the other. The hook, hooks into your hair, and the jeweled charm sits on the forehead, the place where the sixth chakra is found, or third eye. Its purpose is for preservation (of the soul?). I haven't read deeply into the history and purposes of Indian jewelry, but each piece has significance beyond beauty. We'll explore that later in other costumes.
I had enough of the lining silk to make a dupatta for Cissy. These scarves can be see through or opaque, but one thing is certain. They are decorative.
One of the trims that came direct from India, had these tiny little mirrors on it. When we shopped at Cost Plus years ago, all the mirrors were glass. Now most of the mirrored fabrics and trims are made with a synthetic fiber. Perhaps to sew through? Less
expensive? Easier to make? Who knows? But I was delighted with the real mirrors and used this trim to decorate the edges of this dupatta. Still, there wasn't quite enough sparkle to the scarf, so I added flat sequins.
Cissy is wearing gold metallic sandals on her feet, which would also be traditional.
Here's a close up of the handmade tassels. I'm going to try to make my own at some point and that means buying more stuff. The correct beads. And truth be known, I'm tired of shopping at this point. Every piece of anything I buy has to be the perfect scale for whatever doll I'm dressing. It takes hours and hours and hours to find the right "stuff".
I did make Cissy some bangles though. The bangles are called Kada and Kangan. Kangan is a wider bracelet from what I've read. One of Cissy's kada's has a little gold elephant on it. This is not traditional, but I like elephants!
Cissy's choli is also edged with large sequin trim, which you can see here.
Traditional Indian earrings have this bell shape and from there, the ways in which they use this bell shape is endless. Some are jeweled. Some are enamel. Some have jewels or pearls hanging inside of them. I actually purchased some gold and blue jewelry from the same seller of these earrings and maang tika, but the ruby color looked more dramatic.
Cissy's armband is two key rings. I have some ideas on how I might do better for this purpose, but the rings work. This was just my first attempt at a costume, which I'll call lehenga. I wanted mostly to get the process down. Understand what I'm doing, so designing more elaborate costuming can come later.
This costuming is typical for the Diwali celebration. The celebration of light. I was intrigued while watching, recently, the first season of, And Just Like That, the follow up from Sex and the City, where Carrie goes to a Diwali celebration and wears this way over-the-top costume.
Speaking of celebrations, one of the items they use for them are Diyas. Diyas in Urli. Diya translates to lamp. The urli is a bowl or vessel in which you can float candles (diyas) or flowers in water. They are traditionally brass and very beautiful. There is one shown at the beginning of this post.
While I was looking for accessories for Cissy and Kavi, I found these cloth-covered elephants that are used as diyas. The little gold basket on their backs holds a candle. These are used as gifts or table favors at celebrations. I thought they were delightful.
And I purchased, at great expense, and direct from India, two miniature solid brass thali sets. Is it any wonder that I've grown tired of shopping?
For me, writing this blog tonight is the perfect way to end August and begin September tomorrow. I finished my first Indian costume just in time to start a new month. September is my birthday month, and I might just give it an Indian theme this year. Last year was Little Red Riding Hood. Here's the thing though, we'll be going on our first vacation-road trip in six years, early mid-month. While we're both yearning for a change of scenery, I will miss being able to create more costuming in my studio. Or maybe not. I'm thinking of doing some bead embroidery on the costumes and that I can do in our room at night or on the days my husband takes off on his bicycle.
I hope you'll enjoy the small selection of images and artwork I included in this post. I almost forgot to mention my love of peacocks and peacocks are birds of India and Southeast Asia. The peacock, the blue peacock of India, became its national bird symbol in 1963. I've loved peacocks all my life for their exotic beauty. This is what India means to me. Exotic beauty.
Wishing you a fabulous September!. Melissa
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| Diyas and Thali |
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| Potli |
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| Mini thali from listing. |
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| The other mini thali with little fillings. |
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| Kavi in Rhea's Kurta and Salwar |
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| Neela - Girl of Many Lands |
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| The Beatles in India |
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| With Donovan in saffron yellow. Mellow Yellow! |
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| Adorable series! |
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| Cute dress design for a child doll. |
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| I'm hungry! |